Chaos Magic

One of the only 5.10’s in proximity to 5.10 Wall, this route has a little bit of everything! The business starts as soon as you’re off the ground. Tiptoe through four bolts of delicate slab (crux) before reaching a well-deserved stance to rest those calves before making a few more slab moves to gain an awesome layback flake. 

(About halfway through the route, you’ll reach a pedestal where the critical beta is to turn around and soak in a sweeping panoramic view of the White Mountains.) 

Beyond the pedestal you’ll encounter a second crux that trends left, then into some cool quartz crimps and a mantle onto a sloping ledge. There’s a small runout to the 8th bolt (make the clip after standing up onto the ledge), but you’re rewarded with another scenic rest on a huge detached flake. 

After the flake you’ll encounter a slopey bowl beneath the upper lip dubbed The Egg. A sneaky hold will help you pull into this feature before scoping out the moves to the anchors. Commit to a few more feet of (you guessed it) dicey slab moves before easier climbing to the top. Hang out on the ledge and enjoy the scenery!

From the trail, head right (away from Lady Sky) and uphill towards the base of the obvious slab. 

10 bolts to ring anchors