Type: Trad, 105 ft (32 m)
GPS: 45.55274, -122.56886
FA: Bryan Smith/Max Silverman 10/25/2024
Page Views: 217 total · 12/month
Shared By: bryans on Oct 10, 2024
Admins: Roberta Zouain, Nate Ball

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Description Suggest change

This long, steep moderate is becoming a popular 5.10 here. Bring singles of .2-5, doubles from .75-2 and an optional 3 inch cam.There are are 2 ways to start and 3 ways to finish, but the crux is in the middle. Stem up a wide corner using a bolt shared with Dragonfly, then traverse left and mantle onto the prominent pillar (or start on the pillar itself, 25 feet uphill - this makes the route a bit shorter, but makes for a direct line) 

Once on the pillar follow bolts and crank through bulges on jugs. Gear from .2-5 protects the face leading to the lone bolt below the upper chimney, then finesse your way left of that bolt to gain the horizontal crack leading back right ino the chimney. Once in the chimney, head straight up to an anchor at the top of the chimney for the easiest finish, or traverse out left halfway up the chimney using a thin crack and face holds to reach the top left chain anchor, with a .5-.75 piece to protect those moves. To add even more 5.10 climbing, step right after clipping the bolt below the chimney, then climb the last 3 bolts of Dragonfly to finish on that route's anchor. (The upper chimney of this route  is labeled as Joe's Hanging Garden in the old paper guide. )

Location Suggest change

Start in a wide corrner below a bolt shared with Dragonfly. (An alternate and easier direct start is 25 feet uphill and climbs the pillar itself to gain the steep face above)

Protection Suggest change

Singles from .2-.5, doubles from .75-2, with an optional 3, and many bolts

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