I Stole This For You
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Matt Roman, Aug 2024 |
Page Views: | 57 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Matt Roman on Aug 26, 2024 |
Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Kristin Tippey, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
Description
I Stole This For You (5.11+) is the bolt-line that runs up the steep face and beautiful arete directly above the anchor perch for 2 lower routes (As You Wish 5.10+, and Inconceivable 5.11-)(the bolt line will be visible from the ground).( Also, starting directly below this line, is Buttercrack 5.10-, which is how the first asenscionist chose to lead it from the ground up. Long and varied climbing all the way up!)
It's really a choose your own adventure to make it to the top from the ground.
Clip the first bolt above and left with a small move and get ready to head into the first crux of the pitch with amazing starting holds. Another bolt leads you into a .11- Bouldery-traversing crux, which then you will receive the first taste (of what you have a lot more coming, that is), slapping your way up the arete.
Burly movement and delicate feet will define the last crux (5.11+) which is at the second to last bolt. Finish up from here by working up and to the left, to the anchor with Mussey's
Try to avoid getting sucked into the gully on your left as it is full of dirt and not that fun.
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