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Angular Devotion

5.10c, Trad, 95 ft (29 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 10 votes
FA: Bryan Smith/Max Silverman 10/25/2024
Oregon > Portland & The… > Rocky Butte > Wall of Shadows > Right Side

Description

This long, steep moderate has become a popular 5.10 here, especially as there are three options/anchors to finish with. For the full route that involves trad placements, start in a 5-9ish corner using a bolt shared with Dragonfly. For an all bolted but shorter experience, start on the bolted pillar a bit uphill. Either way, mantle onto the pillar, then crank through bulges to arrive at a lower angle slab. Once at the final bolt on the slab you have three finishing options: (1) continue straight up the chimney for a 5-9 finish, (2) enter the chimney, but do an exciting 5-9ish traverse left on gear (.75 cam) to reach the Shadowplay anchor or (3) traverse rightward under the chimney to finish on the bolts for Dragonfly. 

Location

Start in a wide corrner below a bolt shared with Dragonfly. (An alternate and easier direct start is 25 feet uphill and climbs the pillar itself to gain the steep face above)

Protection

Singles from .2-.5, doubles from .75-2. Bring a 3 if finishing directly above the chimney.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Angular Devotion. Not all bolts marked. Several finish options exist: LEFT sport (Shadowplay ~11a), MIDDLE trad (Joe's Hanging Garden ~9), RIGHT sport (Dragonfly ~10)
[Hide Photo] Angular Devotion. Not all bolts marked. Several finish options exist: LEFT sport (Shadowplay ~11a), MIDDLE trad (Joe's Hanging Garden ~9), RIGHT sport (Dragonfly ~10)
Middle section jug haul. Wall of Shadows is tall and this route is full-length!
[Hide Photo] Middle section jug haul. Wall of Shadows is tall and this route is full-length!
Clip!
[Hide Photo] Clip!
Within city limits, nearly a hundred feet off the deck. Kevin scopes out the finishing sequence.
[Hide Photo] Within city limits, nearly a hundred feet off the deck. Kevin scopes out the finishing sequence.
Bryan on the original (left traverse) finish of Angular Devotion
[Hide Photo] Bryan on the original (left traverse) finish of Angular Devotion

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ian Bloom
Portland, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Fun, steep for the grade, and well protected. Wall of Shadows gains another worthy moderate that will only get better with more traffic. Oct 10, 2024
J P
Portland, OR
 
[Hide Comment] A little bit of everything - dihedral, traverse moves, 3D overhangs, vert edges and ledges, and some handjam cracks too.

Would be a proud onsight!

Lots of good rests when needed. Jun 1, 2025
Lisa Diderot
Portland, OR
5.10c
[Hide Comment] A few more bolts have been added and this route can now be climbed as a fun and well-protected 5.10 sport route. To climb it this way, start a bit further uphill on the pillar. Once through the steep section, climb up and rightward on easy terrain, clip a bolt on the left (extend it), and then finish on the last three bolts of Dragonfly up the right side of the face. Sep 3, 2025