This long, steep moderate has become a popular 5.10 here, especially as there are three options/anchors to finish with. For the full route that involves trad placements, start in a 5-9ish corner using a bolt shared with Dragonfly. For an all bolted but shorter experience, start on the bolted pillar a bit uphill. Either way, mantle onto the pillar, then crank through bulges to arrive at a lower angle slab. Once at the final bolt on the slab you have three finishing options: (1) continue straight up the chimney for a 5-9 finish, (2) enter the chimney, but do an exciting 5-9ish traverse left on gear (.75 cam) to reach the Shadowplay anchor or (3) traverse rightward under the chimney to finish on the bolts for Dragonfly.
Start in a wide corrner below a bolt shared with Dragonfly. (An alternate and easier direct start is 25 feet uphill and climbs the pillar itself to gain the steep face above)
Singles from .2-.5, doubles from .75-2. Bring a 3 if finishing directly above the chimney.
Portland, OR
Portland, OR
Would be a proud onsight!
Lots of good rests when needed. Jun 1, 2025
Portland, OR