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The Peacemonger
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in Cold War Crags
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Beyond Good 'n Evil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Bolshoi Boi Toi S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Chippin' Away S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Escape Gully, AKA Checkpoint Charlie, The TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Fear Eats the Soul T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Helden Crack T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Kleiner Krieg T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Kooks with Nukes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Laika Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Matryoshka Tower S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Peacemonger, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Reaganomicon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Schmetterling T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Skeptic, The S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Wahl der Krankheit T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 38.48349, -109.35649 |
| FA: | Brian Laidlaw |
| Page Views: | 158 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Marcus St Jolie on Aug 18, 2024 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
This line was first spied by the eagle-eyed Eric Decaria, and then later bolted, cleaned, and sent by a local group of contentious misanthropes.
Start by climbing through four bolts of on-the-go clips and inobvious crux sequences moving right into a dihedral with a finger crack in the back, then on through some laybacking and stemming before the no-hands rest on the ledge. Another four or so bolts of thoughtful climbing will deposit you at a tenuous rest stance at the bottom of a very mill creeky slab. Tech your way through that, then clip the chains from a nice little ledge.
Despite its good rests and relatively short length, the whole thing feels a bit questy...basically climbs like three wildly different shorter climbs in one. Full value!
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