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Routes in Other Mill Creek Areas

Black Lesbian Nightmare T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Earth Shade S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Going the Distance S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Real Talk T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Sepultura T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Skeptic, The S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
diente de perro S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Zack Smith
Page Views: 924 total, 36/month
Shared By: ben jammin on Oct 31, 2015
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is amazing but suffers from neglect, I would guess, because of it's isolation and probably because not many know about it. This route is too good to be shrouded in mystery, especially when you've done most of the routes in MC proper. There are a handful of other moderates in the area (that I know of) but none match the quality of this climb.

What makes The Skeptic so great is the diversity of climbing on the route. Dyno's, deadpoints to fingerlocks, healthy runouts and good ol' fashion power. Originally rated 13c R the R can certainly be mitigated with supplemental pro but the crux clip at the third bolt is a little heads up. I thought it was a bit easier than Tikiman so I went with the slash grade.

The Climb: Get things started off right! Get up on the jug and do a 5 foot all-points-off dyno to the good ledge up and left. Maybe someone could figure out something technical to avoid this but just quit with your euro pansy shit and dyno. Another dynamic move gets you to a good jug to rest before the crux.

The crux is powerful and probably around V7/8, Crimp hard to get into the 'pencil sharpener' (hopefully you have small fingers) and deadpoint out left to the good ledge. Power up to a decent hold and do some technical, core intensive moves to deadpoint into a fingerlock. A nice jug follows and if you've made it here you should be sending. 40 feet of laybacking and fingerlocking gets you to the final 40 feet of slab. This slab ain't easy so stay on your game. You can add some pro here if you want but it's easy (5.8) to the chains.

A powerful and committing climb that has the best of everything. I'd say this one of the best sport climbs in the Moab area.

Location

This route is located at the Iron Curtain crag in lower, lower Mill Creek. Use directions to get to Lower Brumley but take the turn off before that pull out on the left hand side about a quarter mile before. Drive down serious 4WD road about 2 miles (left at the fork) until you can't drive anymore. You'll be at the top of the crag about 200 yards from the parking. Either rap in or walk to your right and around and follow a gully down to the cliff. The Skeptic is about 300 yards down the trail on your left.

Protection

Mostly bolts but a couple pieces are nice. A green alien helps between the 5th and 6th bolt and a hand size piece if you want it for the last 25 ft to the chains.

Photos

m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
Looks rad!! Nov 11, 2015