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Routes in Cold War Crags
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Beyond Good 'n Evil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Bolshoi Boi Toi S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Chippin' Away S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Escape Gully, AKA Checkpoint Charlie, The TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Fear Eats the Soul T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Helden Crack T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Kleiner Krieg T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Kooks with Nukes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Laika Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Matryoshka Tower S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Peacemonger, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Reaganomicon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Schmetterling T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Skeptic, The S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Wahl der Krankheit T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 38.48349, -109.35649 |
| FA: | David "Bowie" Jones, November 9th 1989 |
| Page Views: | 1,032 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Marcus St Jolie on Jun 27, 2022 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
The route follows a single improbably continuous crack from the ground, around an arete, to its terminus at a convenient ledge at the chains. The first half is a relatively easy corner that ends in a hands free rest in a pod, while the second half is more varied and offers several moderate boulder problems separated by juggy rests.
Two stars for the little bit of sandy rock in the middle and the hassle to clean whatever gear you placed before the crux traverse, but one million stars for the feature....I mean, a steep crack that splits an arete?? c'monnnnn!
Location
38°29'6.94"N, 109°21'21.96"W
Follow directions for Cold War Crags. Route is located at the far west end of East Berlin wall.
Protection
Gear is good where it really needs to be. My redpoint rack was doubles 0.3 to 2 camalot, plus a 0.2. Runouts can probably be avoided with the addition of some totems, ball nuts, and/or stoppers. Do bring a couple longish slings for whatever you place before the traverse.
There are two sets of anchors: one at the rim (maybe 140ft up), and one about 40 feet lower that serves as the anchor for the route proper.
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