Finishing Touch

A direct finish to Quick Release that follows a big corner system. A bit dirtier and looser than the lower pitches, as the route is apparently wet for most of the summer. You are rewarded with some atmospheric corner climbing near the top. Make sure your feet are ready for lots of smearing! A recent (2024) retrofit has replaced most of the ~50-year-old bolts. Chris Perry's 'Banff Rock' topo: http://www.banffrock.ca/BVRpdfs/Chinamans/Ha%20Ling.pdf

Climb pitches 1 to 5 of Quick Release.

Pitch 6: From the left side of the ledge, climb up the groove for about 5 m before stepping left onto the face. Face climb over broken ledges up a slab until you reach a break/ramp. Do not go left up the ramp. Climb above it to reach a flake (0.75 cam) and then step right to reach a bolted belay. (45 m, 5.9)

Pitch 7: Angle up and right to reach a bolt (2024). Climb up through a wide crack/break and into a groove. Climb more or less directly upward through smaller corners to reach a ledge on the left and the main corner. (55m, 5.10a)

Pitch 8: Follow the main corner on relatively good holds (watch out for the odd loose block). Step right onto the face near the top of the corner to reach a bolted belay below the large roof. (40m, 5.9)

Pitch 9: Step right under the roof and follow low 5th class terrain to the top and belay on gear (5.6, 50m)

The rightmost corner on Ha Ling. There is a black arching roof on the right side of the corner about 1/3 of the way up the wall.

Double ropes. Rack to #4, doubles 0.3-0.75 or 1. A good selection of nuts. You could bring pins but it's not necessary.