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Routes in Ha Ling (formerly Chinaman's)

NE Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
NW Shoulder (aka THE BOLT), The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Orient Express (Direct) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sisyphus Summits S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Soft Moth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 1700 ft, 21 pitches, Grade III
FA: R. Chayer, H. Lenny & G. Hill
Page Views: 3,799 total, 118/month
Shared By: Tom Gnyra on Apr 25, 2015
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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11 Opinions

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Description

"The longest sport climb north of Mexico!"

Mostly slab and face moves, this all bolted beast is a great outing for someone who really wants to push mid-hard grades on good to great rock in the rockies. Typical limestone climbing on one of the best features in Canmore.

Many consider the crux as being pitch 4. Other things to be aware of: this is a serious route that will take 8 hours for a really good party. You may be showered by rocks on the way up. Climbing on a windy day can be dangerous. Also: this is a North facing climb and so can be really cold, even in the summer months.

Location

51.05833°N / 115.4°W

park as for grassi lakes, cross the dam and head towards the stone giant above (lots of scree). Find a cairn and a traversing bolt line (right to left) and start here.

Protection

Sport rack (20+ quickdraws if linking pitches), all stations rigged for 25m raps.
Raddam6
Salt Lake
 
Raddam6   Salt Lake
 
Dan's beta is right on. We started at 7 and had sun for the duration of the route, linking all odd pitches with the following even pitch from the ground, until simuling out some of the top stuff. Car to car 8 hrs. The route deserves 3.5 stars for quality climbing and consistently good rock all the way to the top. A few loose blocks are present, but not many. We brought 6 shoulder length but 8 would have been better. You can get by with 20 draws total if you skip or back clean a bolt here and there, which is very easy to do. Jul 30, 2017
Alex Temus
Small Town, USA
Alex Temus   Small Town, USA
Looks like an awesome route, haven't been there myself, but it's worth noting that there is a relatively new (as of 2012) sport route which is slightly longer than this in Utah - Squawstruck. Check it out! I love the huge new sport routes that are starting to pop up everywhere. Tons of work must be put in by the FA teams.


mountainproject.com/v/10689… Apr 23, 2017
500m of crimping. Jan 13, 2017
Dr. Dan
Steamboat Springs, CO
  5.10d
Dr. Dan   Steamboat Springs, CO
  5.10d
This should be a classic. Climbed yesterday with Frede Varengo. Was expecting much longer day, but did car to car pretty much in 7 hours with just over 5 hours of climbing. Left car at 8, climbing by 8:45 and down by 3 PM. Had done the approach a couple of days before hand and experienced the wrong way 600 foot steep scree climb. If you veer left on the trail you'll end up climbing the scree, but if you go up and far right (The "real" trail) it is a relatively easy 1,000+ ft. climb.
Locate the right trending bolt line near the left side of the face. Right from the 10a start to the 10a final friction slab, whether you are leading or following, you need to stay focused. LOTS of slab, small edges, crimps, side pulls and friction. Agree pitch 4 (10c) is probably the crux. None of the 10d's are harder. The 8th pitch 10d corner was the most physical pitch on the route. The bolting is a little off and requires some reaches in a few spots (mostly out right). Linked all pitches from the start and simul-climbed all the 9's and upper P19 10a. There are a lot of comments about how cold this route is, but we had sun for half the route. Last 2 pitches got some rain which made the last pitch friction slab a little tense, but even with the moisture the friction was good.
This climb has a lot of really good quality slab climbing and is pretty committing. Rapping could be done, but would be a pain. I have done a couple of the longer routes on EEOR (Generosity and Reprobate) and his is just a better all around climnb.
Aug 12, 2016