Quick Fix

Original FA: J. Bauer & T. Jones, July 1976
Variation/Retrofit: S. Lilley, J. Walter, B. Shaw, C. Rogans, 2025

A modern variation of Quick Release. The name reflects the simultaneous retrofit carried out during its establishment, in which many of the original first-ascent bolts were removed. The route begins with the first two pitches of Quick Release. Pitch 3 takes a minor variation to bypass the wedged loose blocks on the original line. Pitch 4 – 6 deviates from the main corner system, traversing beneath an overhanging arch, followed by a fully bolted pitch from a neighbouring route (project). This variation avoids the refrigerator-sized loose flake (propped by another loose flake) on the original Pitch 5. An alternative corner finish has also been added as a more engaging option. A fixed pin suggests this corner was likely first climbed sometime in the 1970s, during the same era as other Ha Ling north face routes.

Start in the rightmost main corner system and climb 60 m of low 5th class to a bolted station marking the start of the route.

Pitch 1: Follow the corner to a bulge (bolt). Either climb straight up the bulge, pulling a few moves that are much harder than 5.8, or traverse hard right (not recommended) towards two fixed pins, to make a difficult step up onto the face before moving back to the corner to reach a belay on a ledge (5.1035 m)

Pitch 2: Follow the crack with increasing difficulty, passing an overhang on its right side, then climb more easily to a ledge (5.10+ or A0, 40 m)

Pitch 3: From the belay, traverse right, then trend up and right toward a shallow left-facing corner on easy ground. Clip a bolt, make a slab move right into the corner, and layback (option for micro cam or small nut) to a second bolt. A tricky sequence (5.10-) gains the top of the corner. Step left to a belay (5.10-, 20 m)

Pitch 4: Climb either straight up the corner/crack (slippery feet, harder than it looks), or step right and climb unprotected, easier rock to reach a ramp, and follow it back left to the main corner. From here, you can choose to trend left for Quick Release. For Quick Fix, continue up 4 m, then step right onto a blank wall to a bolt. Climb through sparse holds to a second bolt then a belay at the base of a large arching roof (5.10, 20 m)

Pitch 5: Step right at the belay and make your way across the slab on great rock, passing two spaced bolts. Place small cams in the crack below the roof (0.3 – 0.4), then step out right to a bolt. Continue up a groove on clean rock to another bolt, then right to a small ledge and belay (5.8, 40 m)

Pitch 6: Follow a line of bolts up enjoyable 5.9 terrain to reach a large ledge system and belay. This pitch is from an unfinished neighboring project (5.9, 35 m)

Pitch 7: Some fun 5.5 climbing leads to the base of a large corner system. From here you can continue traversing right to exit via the scree field, or climb a short slab to a bolted belay below a small roof and at the base of the corner to follow the corner variation of Pitch 8 (5.5, 80 m)

Pitch 8: Climb up the corner, occasionally using holds on the left wall. Pass a fixed pin, then bypass a short section of rotten rock by stepping left onto small ledges. Continue up and around a bulge on its right side. Continue up the corner/slab, finishing in a wide chimney to a belay on the left side (5.9, 70 m)

Recommended gear: A full rack from micros to #3, with doubles of finger to mid-sized cams. Rack of nuts. Pins not required.