Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Ha Ling (formerly Chinaman's)

NE Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
NW Shoulder (aka THE BOLT), The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Orient Express (Direct) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sisyphus Summits S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Soft Moth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 1900 ft, 12 pitches, Grade III
FA: Brandon Pullan, Nick Rochocewich June/07
Page Views: 124 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tom Gnyra on May 2, 2016
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

From Brandon Pullan's Excellent write up on TABVAR.



I spotted this obvious line in the winter and thought it looked wild, it resembles a lightning bolt. We did it car to car in 3 hours and used no bolts. The belays are not fixed but are easy to find and build. The route takes an obvious ramp, 7 pitches, to another leftward ramp, 2 pitches, to a final rightward ramp, 3 pitches. The crux pitches are 5 & 6. They are slightly runout but typical to the more traditional routes in the area. The rock on pitch 5, the Chimney, is a little dodgy off the belay but well protected. the crux comes on the run out face climbing right of the chimney, the chimney looked loose and no fun. The next pitch, The Fin, has an awesome position and fun climbing. The left ramp, The Sidewalk, is easy climbing and fast. The upper ramp out right climbs fast and is super fun. Overall the climbing is easy, fun and the rock is bulletproof. Many escapes are possible if weather pisses out. We had snow.

Approach: Take the normal approach for the rock routes and keep and eye out for an obvious weakness left of the ramp. Begin up the good corner.

P1: 5.4, 30m Climb the broken corner up and left to gain the ramp out right.

P2: 5.4, 55m Traverse right (easy) up pillar and down climb. Belay on slung block. (Sling Block)

P3: 4th class, 60m Traverse right angling up towards obvious corner beneath upper chimney. (Belay in good crack)

P4: 5.6, 30m Up corner to steep face then over bulge to base of chimney.

P5: 5.7/R, 55m (The Chimney) Up broken Corner and a difficult step to alcove. Step right onto face, crux, on side pulls and climb the excellent face to good ledge. (Cairn in cave marks anchor)

P6: 5.7, (The Fin) 60m Up corner (bomber rock) and break onto a 30m fin that leads to a corner. Protect with #4 camalot and make fun moves over bulge and right up to block belay.

P7: 5.2 class, 60m Up slanting ramp right to base of left ramp. Avoid loose flake at start of pitch and take the long good slab.

P8: 5.3, 60m (The Sidewalk) Up the left ramp, fun and wild position.

P9: 5th class, 60m Continue up ram to base of right slanting ramp and great rock.

P10: 5.4, 60m Up broken rock and runnels to large block belay and fixed pin. Great rock.

P11: 5.4, 60m Continue up corner and ramp to base of short chimney.

P12: 5.3, 30m Up right of chimney and to the top.

Location

Approach: Take the normal approach for the rock routes and keep and eye out for an obvious weakness left of the ramp. Begin up the good corner.

Protection

Gear: Single Rack, Double 2's, 3's, 10 long slings

Photos

0 Comments