Phasers On Stun
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
FA: | Bruce Burgess, Andy Kluge, and Lea Crandall |
Page Views: | 121 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Brian E on Apr 14, 2024 |
Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
Phasers On Stun is a long, wild ride up the main wall. The route was originally done in two pitches, but with adequate pro extension it easily goes in one. Start on a ledge by a tree below a horizontal hand crack. Traverse up and left from the ledge and work towards the cream colored, clean rock. The climbing is easy but dirty. Make face moves up interesting, in cut holds, followed by a traverse left on sharp jugs. Take care to find pro, which is spaced but adequate. Make a challenging pull up to a horizontal on the left side of a one foot roof, and pull the roof with crimps onto a grungy slab. My understanding is you could belay in a horizontal crack here, but I extended my piece out (four foot sling) and reached up to the juggy, thuggy rising crack on left. The crack takes #3s and a #4 and hits a bucket hold in the middle of the face. Another big move to horizontal holds leads to a short traverse left onto a well-deserved ledge. Pull back right onto the face, and enjoy a few final 5.10 moves at the top of the main wall to a belay with medium size cams.
To get off the wall, we traversed 30 feet climbers' left on an easy ledge to the top of Lost In Space.
Location
Getting to the base of this route is fairly terrible. We left the main trail at a big flat boulder about 100 feet below Lost In Space. Quest up the dirty, 3rd class jungle and work left up a ram. Bushwhack through the vertical jungle to a ledge and traverse hard right to a sizable pine tree. Belay here below a horizontal hand crack.
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