Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Bruce Burgess, Andy Kluge, and Lea Crandall
Page Views: 121 total · 12/month
Shared By: Brian E on Apr 14, 2024
Admins: Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route


2 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Phasers On Stun is a long, wild ride up the main wall. The route was originally done in two pitches, but with adequate pro extension it easily goes in one. Start on a ledge by a tree below a horizontal hand crack. Traverse up and left from the ledge and work towards the cream colored, clean rock. The climbing is easy but dirty. Make face moves up interesting, in cut holds, followed by a traverse left on sharp jugs. Take care to find pro, which is spaced but adequate. Make a challenging pull up to a horizontal on the left side of a one foot roof, and pull the roof with crimps onto a grungy slab. My understanding is you could belay in a horizontal crack here, but I extended my piece out (four foot sling) and reached up to the juggy, thuggy rising crack on left. The crack takes #3s and a #4 and hits a bucket hold in the middle of the face. Another big move to horizontal holds leads to a short traverse left onto a well-deserved ledge. Pull back right onto the face, and enjoy a few final 5.10 moves at the top of the main wall to a belay with medium size cams. 

To get off the wall, we traversed 30 feet climbers' left on an easy ledge to the top of Lost In Space.

Location Suggest change

Getting to the base of this route is fairly terrible. We left the main trail at a big flat boulder about 100 feet below Lost In Space. Quest up the dirty, 3rd class jungle and work left up a ram. Bushwhack through the vertical jungle to a ledge and traverse hard right to a sizable pine tree. Belay here below a horizontal hand crack. 

Protection Suggest change

Doubles and a #4.

Photos

0 Comments