All Locations > N Carolina > 2. Northern Mou… > Linville Gorge > Hawksbill Mtn > Main Wall

Eros Direct

Name: Eros Direct
Rating: 3.5

5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British PG13

Routes in Main Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Anegada Passage T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Eros T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Eros Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Lost in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Phasers On Stun T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Star Trekin' T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Winged Mongrel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Type:	Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA:	Jeff Burton 1992
Page Views:	612 total · 19/month
Shared By:	Adam Gallimore on Aug 30, 2021
Admins:	Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) Details

fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…

Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.

Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.

NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.

Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.

Description

Information on this route was hard to find, but this seems to be a direct line after pulling the Eros starting roof. Instead of traversing out left on the jug rail, pull the bulge and step right onto a sloping ledge. From here find the good jugs and clip the rusty bolt. Begin to move left and up on the crimps and jugs until you can find one or two finger/hand size cams. Finish at the obvious bolted anchor/rap station. Keep in mind that once you place the #1 cam under the roof, there is no suitable gear until the bolt. If you were to fall pulling this move you would likely hit the slab or pendulum into the dihedral (PG13/R section). The holds are pretty good once you find them, you just have to commit. Can be easily top-roped after leading the other routes.

I am still uncertain if Eros Variation listed in the Thomas Kelly guidebook follows a different line than Eros Direct. The topos in the two books seem to suggest they are different lines. Both are listed as 12a.