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Routes in Main Wall
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Anegada Passage T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Eros T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Eros Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Lost in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Phasers On Stun T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Star Trekin' T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Winged Mongrel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Jim Downs, Tom Howard - 1979 |
| Page Views: | 5,248 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Tom Caldwell on Jul 9, 2010 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
Start the route at a thin white tips crack on a blackish/brown slab. Slab up using slopers, crimps, and the crack. Make some technical moves through a bulge to a great stance below a small overhang. Plug gear and pull the crux at the overhang. Continue up above a block in the crack. Then make moves up and left onto a slopey ledge. Continue up and left to a left-facing corner (R, but easy). The pin protecting this traverse left as described in the NC Selected Guide no longer exists. Pull the corner to a great belay ledge and build a trad anchor.
Directly above the P1 corner is a white face with horizontals. Pull through the 9+ horizontals and get gear when you can. This section is slightly runout until you can pull onto the next large ledge, so be comfortable at the grade. Either belay on the ledge or continue up. The drag is not severe to continue as a single pitch. Several variations exist to exit the final wall. Move left on the ledge to the base of a small finger crack. This crack ends and more big juggy horizontals start. Follow these up to the base of a large roof and pull right around the roof. Belay above the roof and walk off left using a gravely trail. You reach the top after doing two easy moves over small sections of rock.
Most parties climb the P2 of Lost in Space, but it is worth finishing Star Trekkin' at least once.
Directly above the P1 corner is a white face with horizontals. Pull through the 9+ horizontals and get gear when you can. This section is slightly runout until you can pull onto the next large ledge, so be comfortable at the grade. Either belay on the ledge or continue up. The drag is not severe to continue as a single pitch. Several variations exist to exit the final wall. Move left on the ledge to the base of a small finger crack. This crack ends and more big juggy horizontals start. Follow these up to the base of a large roof and pull right around the roof. Belay above the roof and walk off left using a gravely trail. You reach the top after doing two easy moves over small sections of rock.
Most parties climb the P2 of Lost in Space, but it is worth finishing Star Trekkin' at least once.
Location
As you hike to Middle Hawksbill, you come to a clearing on a flat rock. From the flat rock walk directly to the wall and a small ledge which starts the route at the thin white finger crack. This route is a 5-10 min. walk-off, so you may want to rack a pair of shoes. On the way down, look for a faint trail that leads off to the left, this is the fastest way to the base, or continue down the main trail and re-enter the same way originally.
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