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Routes in Main Wall

Anegada Passage T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Eros T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lost in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Star Trekin' T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Winged Mongrel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Tom Howard, Jim Downs, 1979
Page Views: 2,137 total · 19/month
Shared By: David82 on Aug 29, 2009 with updates from Alexander Blum
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

28 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details


Start on near vertical rock, head up and left to a vertical crack, pull a couple of awkward moves to a good stance below the roof, place some good gear, and get moving on the rather steep roof. Exit to the left before the end of the roof!

Other advice from the guide book...

Start: At left most side of cliff on a bushy pedestal.
Pitch 1: Move up the face and angle left to where a roof and angling crack system meet. Follow the corner up and right until you can monkey-bar onto the face using huge jugs. Continue up the face to a natural belay near the top of the cliff.
Descent: Move right to rappel from the two bolts atop "Eros Direct". 80 feet.

Information from "Select Climbs in North Carolina". Yon Lambert and Harrison Shull. 2002.


Standard rack


ChanVan Schaack
Denver, CO
ChanVan Schaack   Denver, CO
IMHO, this climb is not PG13 at all- assuming you can hang around to place it, there is great gear throughout. While due to the pumpy nature of the climb it is probably good to be very solid at the grade before leading it, it is quite safe overall. Amazing climb! Sep 4, 2009
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
Agreed, not PG13... Nov 30, 2009
Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
Alexander Blum   Charlotte, NC
Not PG13, at all. It is very safe, G rated. Just a little intimidating, standing under that roof . . . Mar 3, 2014
Definitely G-rated. Although a lot of the jugs are pretty sharp and could definitely leave you with a few cuts if you're not careful. Apr 6, 2015

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