Type: Trad, 170 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Tom Howard, Jim Downs (1978-79)
Page Views: 8,748 total · 80/month
Shared By: Stephen Felker on Dec 1, 2009 with updates from Curtis Baird
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Pitch 1: Trend up the face, pull the right facing corner, belay.

Pitch 2: Pull the large roof right of the belay (crux); traverse up and right to a small ledge and belay.

Pitch 3: Continue up and right to the top.

Walk off

Location

Starts under a right-facing corner, right of Star Trekin'.

Protection

Well protected:

"Protection: This route takes a wide variety of gear.
First Pitch: nuts and small to medium cams
Second Pitch: long sling for the roof, blue tcu,
double BD #.75
Third Pitch: larger cams up to BD #2

Take some long extendable slings.

Due to the nature of the roof move a backpack is not ideal."

Photos

Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
5.10b
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
5.10b
Beware of the potential for a rope slicing pendulum if the second falls in the crux. Dec 1, 2009
Keith Leary
Broomfield, CO
 
Keith Leary   Broomfield, CO
 
Awesome. It is a three move wonder, but lovely rock and a wonderful location. Great photo op. Feb 22, 2010
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
To prevent the pendulum, stand up above the crux, place gear (small) out left directly over the crux piece. Jul 3, 2010
csproul
Davis, CA
csproul   Davis, CA
Can be done as one pitch. Jul 20, 2010
chummer  
Many years ago (1996?) Greg Martin and myself climbed the last pitch straight up from the belay after the roof move rather than following the right angling crack. We called it the "Danger Will Robinson" pitch. Not sure if we did it 1st or not.

The climbing was like 5.9 or 5.10 and an excellent finish for Lost in Space. Steep and pumpy, good gear but maybe a little spaced out. I thought this was way better and longer than the regular finish. Aug 22, 2010
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Most Radical!! Every pitch is quality climbing with fun moves on quality stone! The second pitch crux (the Roof) is fit for its name, it will have you boggled and lost in space for sure, protects below (decent) and during the middle of the sequence (well, .5-.75BD) so make sure to prepare yourself if you want to stitch it! Last pitch is super fun and exposed as well, easy climbing though. A Must do for the Area! The exposure is Gnarly!!!! Mar 14, 2012
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.10
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.10
If you are worried about the follower it's a good idea to set a belay about 30' past the crux. There's a good stance, and it allows for better communication and visibility, as well as less rope stretch. Aug 17, 2014
Anne McLaughlin
Raleigh, North Carolina
Anne McLaughlin   Raleigh, North Carolina
We started on the cleaner crack system of Star Trekkin' and then moved right to the P1 corner system. Looked more fun (albeit with a real "move") than the unprotectable slab of Lost in Space P1. Apr 30, 2016
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
I see no need to break this into three. After pulling the roof, run it to the top. If the leader plugs the .5 midway thru the crux pull, the follower will be protected. The follower would simply refrain from pulling said piece until he/she was stood up and holding the mega jug up high. Reach down to the knee area and remove the crux pro. Continue up the easy 5.7/5.8 (super fun) ramp finish. May 4, 2018