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Routes in Main Wall
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Anegada Passage T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Eros T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Eros Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Lost in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Phasers On Stun T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Star Trekin' T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Winged Mongrel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 35.91381, -81.88637 |
| FA: | Tom Howard, Jim Downs (1978-79) |
| Page Views: | 14,573 total · 75/month |
| Shared By: | Stephen Felker on Dec 1, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Description
Pitch 1: Trend up the face, pull the right facing corner, belay.
Pitch 2: Pull the large roof right of the belay (crux); traverse up and right to a small ledge and belay.
Pitch 3: Continue up and right to the top.
Walk off
Protection
Well protected:
"Protection: This route takes a wide variety of gear.
First Pitch: nuts and small to medium cams
Second Pitch: long sling for the roof, blue tcu,
double BD #.75
Third Pitch: larger cams up to BD #2
Take some long extendable slings.
Due to the nature of the roof move a backpack is not ideal."
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