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Routes in Main Wall

Anegada Passage T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Eros T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lost in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Star Trekin' T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Winged Mongrel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Tom Howard, Jim Downs (1978-79)
Page Views: 7,824 total, 81/month
Shared By: Stephen Felker on Dec 1, 2009 with updates
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


44 Opinions

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Pitch 1: Trend up the face, pull the right facing corner, belay.

Pitch 2: Pull the large roof right of the belay (crux); traverse up and right to a small ledge and belay.

Pitch 3: Continue up and right to the top.

Walk off

Location

Starts under a right-facing corner, right of Star Trekin'.

Protection

Well protected:

"Protection: This route takes a wide variety of gear.
First Pitch: nuts and small to medium cams
Second Pitch: long sling for the roof, blue tcu,
double BD #.75
Third Pitch: larger cams up to BD #2

Take some long extendable slings.

Due to the nature of the roof move a backpack is not ideal."
Anne McLaughlin
Raleigh, North Carolina
Anne McLaughlin   Raleigh, North Carolina
We started on the cleaner crack system of Star Trekkin' and then moved right to the P1 corner system. Looked more fun (albeit with a real "move") than the unprotectable slab of Lost in Space P1. Apr 30, 2016
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
If you are worried about the follower it's a good idea to set a belay about 30' past the crux. There's a good stance, and it allows for better communication and visibility, as well as less rope stretch. Aug 17, 2014
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Most Radical!! Every pitch is quality climbing with fun moves on quality stone! The second pitch crux (the Roof) is fit for its name, it will have you boggled and lost in space for sure, protects below (decent) and during the middle of the sequence (well, .5-.75BD) so make sure to prepare yourself if you want to stitch it! Last pitch is super fun and exposed as well, easy climbing though. A Must do for the Area! The exposure is Gnarly!!!! Mar 14, 2012
chummer  
Many years ago (1996?) Greg Martin and myself climbed the last pitch straight up from the belay after the roof move rather than following the right angling crack. We called it the "Danger Will Robinson" pitch. Not sure if we did it 1st or not.

The climbing was like 5.9 or 5.10 and an excellent finish for Lost in Space. Steep and pumpy, good gear but maybe a little spaced out. I thought this was way better and longer than the regular finish. Aug 22, 2010
csproul
Davis, CA
csproul   Davis, CA
Can be done as one pitch. Jul 20, 2010
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
To prevent the pendulum, stand up above the crux, place gear (small) out left directly over the crux piece. Jul 3, 2010
Keith Leary  
 
Awesome. It is a three move wonder, but lovely rock and a wonderful location. Great photo op. Feb 22, 2010
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
Beware of the potential for a rope slicing pendulum if the second falls in the crux. Dec 1, 2009