Type: Trad, 330 ft (100 m), 3 pitches
FA: Colten L
Page Views: 74 total · 24/month
Shared By: Colten Lay on Apr 13, 2024
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is a variation of Paul's Coffin Dodger.

P1: Follow beta on Coffin Dodger. 5.10+

P2: Climb the 5.10- chimney, then to where there are bolted rivets that trend right over into the far right system. Instead, go direct (straight up) through the offwidth. Belay below the massive roof with a gear anchor. 5.10+.

P3: Climb up to the roof, then traverse to the exposed roof corner. Pull through the roof on a hand jam, then immediately start climbing through the consistently widening crack, from a #4, #5, #6, #7, then a # 8. A # 5 can be useful for the last moves. 5.11

Rap Coffin Dodger. First rap requires two ropes. Second rap can be done with one 70m.

Protection Suggest change

Nothing smaller than a BD #2.

2x #2

3x #3

3x #4

2x #5

2x #6

1x #7

1x #8 (optional if bringing 2x #7s)

No nuts or small gear