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Coffin Dodger Variation
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Tombstone
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Coffin Dodger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C1 |
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Coffin Dodger Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Epitaph, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Family Plot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 |
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Gift, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Keswick Lads Day Out. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3 |
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R.I.P. 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+ R |
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Rigor Mortis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 |
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Tres Gatos T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 |
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| Type: | Trad, 330 ft (100 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.6852, -109.9169 |
| FA: | Colten L |
| Page Views: | 158 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Colten Lay on Apr 13, 2024 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
This is a variation of Paul's Coffin Dodger.
P1: Follow beta on Coffin Dodger. 5.10+
P2: Climb the 5.10- chimney, then to where there are bolted rivets that trend right over into the far right system. Instead, go direct (straight up) through the offwidth. Belay below the massive roof with a gear anchor. 5.10+.
P3: Climb up to the roof, then traverse to the exposed roof corner. Pull through the roof on a hand jam, then immediately start climbing through the consistently widening crack, from a #4, #5, #6, #7, then a # 8. A # 5 can be useful for the last moves. 5.11
Rap Coffin Dodger. First rap requires two ropes. Second rap can be done with one 70m.
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