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Routes in Tombstone

Coffin Dodger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C1
Epitaph, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Family Plot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Gift, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Keswick Lads Day Out. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3
R.I.P. 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+ R
Rigor Mortis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2
Type: Trad, Aid, 340 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Paul and Andy Ross 10/2000
Page Views: 2,746 total, 16/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 19, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Start just right of Keswick Lads Day Out on the north side of the formation. Watch out for weak friable rock in sections of the crack.

Pitch 1: 100' 5.7 C1Make a long reach to the first pin then aid past three bolts to a good finger sized crack. Clean aid the crack using TCU's. Pass a pod with some wide crack and a short section of easy free climbing. Continue aiding the thin crack to a bolt anchor. Pitch 2: 85' 5.8 C1Aid the hand and fist sized crack up and over the roof. After the roof make some slabby moves on slippery sandy stone before aiding one last steep section and making one more scary free move to the anchor.

Pitch 3: 100' 5.5Follow the offwidth up and left until it turns into a 4th class chimney and belay from gear near the summit.

Protection

wires and lots of tcu's and cams up to 4 inches with many extra TCU's.
Nate Sydnor   Moab
FFA - .12- Done with the help of some great friends. Cruxes include navigating some sandy rock, beautiful varnished finger tip cracks, and assorted desert tactics. Big thanks go out to Evelyn, Herb (who thankfully lead the sandy/scary 2nd pitch) and Melissa for making it all come together. Future parties should bring a standard desert rack to a #2 Camalot, with extra tips and fingers pieces of assorted brands. If you don't want to go to the top, a 60m rope will get you down from the first anchor. Mar 26, 2016
Nathan Sydnor and I recently freed this route. Nate led the first pitch free, which we think weighs in at about 12-. The second pitch went at a very sandy mid 11. A lot of the climbing features awesome varnish but you should expect a veneer of sand. Aug 25, 2015
More photos and a TR at piquaclimber.net/past/tombs… Dec 2, 2007
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
the third bolt was pulled straight out when my buddy stood on it, and he decked...broken foot. just shows how skipping bolts on a bolt ladder isn't the best decision always, or on soft rock. bolt is now gone though. Aug 10, 2007
Ditto what Crusher said. We did what he did, and recommend what he recommends. Apr 23, 2007
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Keswick Lads Day Out:- Last year (2005) someone had left a full fixed rope at the belay of the big corner mentioned above . This rope was in place for quite some considerable time . This is the reason some gun happy cowboy shot the crap out of the anchors trying to get the rope . More blame should be given to the climbers who abandoned this rope, leaving it flapping in the breeze for months. Nov 16, 2006
Brejcha  
I climbed this route in april-ish of 05, the first pitch was a fun crack, I got a nice sand shower at the pitch 1 belay. I also got stung on the finger by a wasp at the first belay. We rapped kenswick so we could scope it.

Just a warning-- someone shot at the anchors at the top of the first pitch on Kenswick, there were bullet holes in the webbing and a few bullets hit within an inch of the bolts, one got knicked too. It's kinda scary because there's not much of a stance there and the bolts are not too good anymore. Oct 26, 2006
It's a little over 200' from the top of pitch 2 to the summit. We downclimbed the slabs and the offwidth (tedious) and rapped the route. A faster way to finish Family Plot would be to lug the gear to the top and rap RIP.The belay/rappel anchor for RIP is real obvious, close to the summit. Oct 31, 2004
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
the route FAMILY Plot is right of KESWICK LADS DAY OUT.. First climbed in Oct 2000 by P and A Ross. A full discription is in Desert Rock IV by Bjornstad Mar 31, 2004