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Routes in Tombstone

Coffin Dodger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C1
Epitaph, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Family Plot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Gift, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Keswick Lads Day Out. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3
R.I.P. 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+ R
Rigor Mortis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2
Type: Trad, Aid, 360 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: 14th Oct 2002. Paul Ross Paul Marshall (UK) var leads
Page Views: 1,675 total, 9/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Oct 13, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The route is located on the Tombstone formation about one mile east of Lost World Butte. See new Desert Rock Guide IV. This route 'The Gift' was put up after the guide was printed. The first pitch, a 200' perfect corner, was led by Paul Marshall - a Brit. This was his very first climb in the US after arriving in Grand Junction the night before, and his first route on sandstone.

The Gift.III 5.8+ C2 360' The climb takes the big open corner about 100' left of 'Keswick Lads Day Out'.

1) Easy 30' to a bolt at the foot of the corner. A mixture of small cams, wires, and bolts for 40'. Then camhooks lead to better placements to a belay in the Eagles nest. 200' C2

2) Continue 20' up an overhanging groove, and then traverse right along a horizontal crack for 60' to an anchor below good cracks. 80' C2

3) Follow cracks to a big ledge. 80' 5.8+ C1

The corner on the right of ledge leads to the rap anchors and a scramble to the summit register on Keswick Lads Day Out route. 2 raps to ground - USE two 60m ropes.

Protection

4 leeper cam hooks.

Two 0 aliens, two 0 friends, three .05, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5" cams, two 4", one 5" and 6". One set of stoppers.

Photos

USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
No reported second ascent as of 2014 Jan 14, 2014