Type: Trad, Aid, 340 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Ross, Layne Potter May 2003
Page Views: 5,452 total · 29/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on May 1, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Some interesting situations.Might be free climbable. On the first ascent three falls were taking caused by a few cams ripping out.The top crack is in good rock.The climb is located on the southern end of the Tombstone, about 300' left of The Gift. 3 minute walk from the parking area.Nice camping area.

P1. Climb a left facing groove/crack to a large ledge. Bolt belay 60' 5.7

P2. Enter the groove system via a short overhanging section with a very thin crack. Pass one bolt to more thin crack and follow this to a good ledge and a bolt belay. 85' C2

P3. On the right wall of the big corner follow the 1/2" to 1 1/2" crack with an occasional larger cam to the final 1 1/2" crack in the exposed headwall. 180' 5.9+ C2 Descent.If rapping the route looks awkward there are other raps down the routes to the north

Protection

Three sets of Friends up to 3 1/2", two 4s, two 5s. One leeper camhook, 1 set of Stoppers.
A. Roberts
Boulder, CO
 
A. Roberts   Boulder, CO
 
Cool route, while looking up at that headwall pitch it begs to be climbed. The 3rd pitch is awesome. As far as gear. we placed 1 #5 but could have gotten through without it, we also didn't need the leeper cam hook. Many yellow metolious, .5, .75, and #1 camalots are helpful for the headwall pitch. The rock is a little scary even in the cracks, put the placements deep because if they are placed too close to the edge they will blow out. We had trouble pulling the ropes from the top, it would be helpful if someone were to extend the anchors over the edge. After a second jug to the top, we made it work by getting the ropes spread out in seperate grooves to lesson the friction. have fun. Nov 21, 2011
Benjamin F
Crescent City, CA
Benjamin F   Crescent City, CA
I'll just leave this here...


youtube.com/watch?v=uKlYTn_… Apr 20, 2012
Rappel Beta*****

As A. Roberts said:

"We had trouble pulling the ropes from the top, it would be helpful if someone were to extend the anchors over the edge."

Well so did we.

I left a double length runner and a locking carabiner extending the anchor at the top of the route. (After jugging our lines TWICE because they wouldn't pull).

The bolts (2) on the top are suspect. They need to be replaced. Both are protruding about an inch out of the rock leaving the hangers loose and flapping around in the wind. Perhaps this was cause by wind erosion? ?? Proceed at your own risk. If I am up there again I will replace the bolts. Anyone else feel free though please.

Other than that the route is great. Lots of small cams. No need for a #5.

Have fun :) Apr 24, 2014
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.10a C2
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.10a C2
Hi Matt . Glad you had fun on the climb. Perhaps other folks if those rap bolts you mentioned are not replaced they could check out the raps from the other climbs to the north. Cheers Apr 25, 2014
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.10a C2
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.10a C2
The blank piece above by Bengamin F .. "I will leave this here" was a very embarrassing video of TV "star" Bear Grylls being pulled up Rigor Mortis by a hopefully hidden black rope pretending he was leading it roped solo. Somehow after much derision and comment, we guess the Grylls team managed to remove it.
Master of Movement Its still available on Utube. Now available below. Apr 17, 2017
Chase Bowman
Durango
 
Chase Bowman   Durango
 
Man this makes a great solo. I took a fall after a blue alien blew out the rock around me. I like the others also had trouble pulling my ropes even with extended anchors. After jugging back up the line i found that the anchor didnt make it over the edge. Make sure the biners are over the side as they just barely have enough clearance. Also I left a .3 X4 on the third pitch. its totally retrievable i just didnt have a nut tool at the time. Bring plenty of green and yellow aliens. May 29, 2018
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.10a C2
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.10a C2
Good one Chase . I took a fall on P1 and P2 when cams blew on me ... I just do not trust those things!! Glad you had fun.. Greetings from the UK. May 29, 2018
Chase Bowman
Durango
 
Chase Bowman   Durango
 
Yeah that rock was a little scary, but other all great line. Thanks for putting it up Paul! Had a blast. Just out of curiosity were those drilled angles for back cleaning? cause thats what I used them for. May 29, 2018
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.10a C2
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.10a C2
Hi we never placed any drilled angles on the first ascent . I suspect they may have to do with the folk that set up Bear Grylls who pretended to climb this route on a hidden black top rope May 30, 2018
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.10a C2
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.10a C2
▶ 2:08
youtube.com/watch?v=5t0mJ63… Bear Grylls Look for the black rope May 30, 2018