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Routes in Tombstone

Coffin Dodger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C1
Epitaph, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Family Plot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Gift, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Keswick Lads Day Out. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3
R.I.P. 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+ R
Rigor Mortis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2
Type: Aid, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Sam Lightner Jr. and Forest Dramis, 04/24/04
Page Views: 940 total · 6/month
Shared By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Apr 23, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Forest Dramis and I established a new route on the SE Face of the Tombstone. The route is overnhanging much of the way, requires a lot of different aid techiniques, and has a 1 minute approach. Why it had not been done before baffles me, but it hadn't. We put in double half inch bolt rappels, free hanging, to get off the thing, Its definitely the beast way down as it is a fun 180 foot free hanging rappel where your rope is very unlikely to get stuck. The route is called R.I.P.... probably 5.10b A2+P1 (5.10b, 80 ft.)starts on the left side of the huge flake at the base of the middle of the S.E Face... right above the parking lot. Climb over a small roof then up and offwidth corner with a couple of bolts for gear. Good ledge at the belayP2 (A2+, 90 ft.) strait up the thin crack for 40 plus feet. Mostly LA's and blades at the start with the odd thin angle. Then friends of all sizes, your own dowels or removeable bolts, and a few bolts. Ends at another small ledge.P3 (A2+ 90 ft.)traverses on 4 bolts to the right to a knifeblade crack. There are a few fixed pieces. Over a roof, into a corner, then scramble to the summit. Gotto use a lot of different stuff here, including a rotten hook move (reachy spot). Use a big hook. Need lots of slings to lower rope drag. Belay on the summit.This climb was on some of the softest rock we have climbed on in the desert. We drilled a few holes for bolts to catch us if a whole line of thin pins pulled. Unfortuneately the holes collapsed! This left them as dowel holes. Half inch removeable bolts might work in them, but other wise, you need to carry a few 3/8 inch by 2 inch machine bolts to hand place in the holes. Don't pull out! The route could be A2, or it could be A4. Hard to tell until you fall on one of those pieces!

Sam

Protection

10 LA's (various)10 knife blades (various)2 x 1/2 inch angles2 x 5/8 inch angles1 x 3/4 inch angle1 x 3/8 by 2 inch machine bolt for dowel hole hookingmedium to large nuts1 set of friends to #5

Photos

Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
i just did this route on 11-7, and onjly used 5 kb placements and am sure it will go clean at a c3-ish level.also removed 2 pins on the top bulge pitch. ithey were almost falling out, maybe someone forgot to clean them?i think i was the second?, judging by the scars.nice line though! good solo!

Nov 20, 2005
Possibly the reason it was not climbed previously is the over use of pitons. This will soon cause unsightly damage this sandstone rock . Suggest as with the other routes on the Tombstone only clean aid should be used with as few as possible FIXED bolts. Oct 29, 2004