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Code Red
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
Routes in Central Area (aka Edge Rock)
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Arete to Left Face TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Assfault T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bat Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4 |
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Cleavage Arete (Left Side) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Code Red S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Face It TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Freeway (AKA Squeeze) TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Highstep Face Traverse TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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On The Edge AKA Grin and Bear It TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pull Up AKA Arete TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Yellow Brick Road TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, TR, 25 ft (8 m) |
| GPS: | 37.52499, -121.81785 |
| FA: | FA: Unknown, FLA: John Ricco and Rances Rodriguez, 2013 |
| Page Views: | 187 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Luke EF on Feb 12, 2024 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Originally a toprope line, this was bolted and called "Aretial Dysfunction" by the 2013 FA party.
Striking arête feature that ends up being more or less a V4 highball with bolts.
Start off a big boulder (nice to have the belayer down low in the pit) and pull up to a jagged crimp on the corner. Work out a sequence to pull up on to the better sidepulls on the arête and a reprieve at a good ledge before a spicy mantle out right.
Location
Described as the "Central Area" in the 2021 guidebook, this arête is in a small enclosed area on the far west end of the cluster. The actual feature is on the western boulder that forms cleavage rock (the backside of Cote Memorial Wall).
To reach the climb, follow the trail that goes to the top of Little Eiger. Once at the top, you can see the arête. Drop down to the base of the climb from here using the steep trail.
Protection
3 bolts to anchor bolts over the top with one quicklink on each. The anchor needs to be extended a bit to avoid the rope running over a sharp edge. I found it easier to climb up one of the routes on the easier face (e.g. The Seam) to clean the anchor for this reason.
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