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Routes in Cleavage Rock

Bat Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cleavage, The TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Highstep Face Traverse TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left Side of the North Face on the North Rock TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Middle Right Side of the North Face on the North Ro, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Side Arete on the North Face of the North Roc, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shoelace Joe TR V4 6B R
West face of Northwest Rock Face TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West face of Northwest Rock Roof Problem TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: TR, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 797 total, 4/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Aug 31, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is located on the southeast face of the northwest most large rock in the Indian Joe Caves area, and has some high-step slabby balance fun moves.

The large chimney is located just to the left of this route, and this is the only climb on this face. Start on the bottom left corner of the rock, and work your way up and right.

There are no easy moves in this climb, but I think 5.11a is a generous rating. You will swing around the corner in a fall, as the route is quite traversy feeling in regards to where to the bolts are, and getting back on route after a fall is almost impossible. Be sure to have your belayer standing solidly, or he / she may take quite a swing also.

For me doing the crux wasn't the hard part, but figuring out where to go AFTER the crux was quite difficult.

Protection

3 bolt top anchor. Bring a long (20') sling to reduce rope drag. You need to climb either the 5.8 face or 5.3 Cote Memorial Wall climb to access the top of the rock to setup a toprope.

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