Type: TR, 20 ft (6 m)
GPS: 37.52499, -121.81785
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,912 total · 7/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Aug 31, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

This route is located on the southeast face of the northwest most large rock (backside of Cote Memorial Wall area), and has some high-step slabby balance fun moves.

The large chimney (The Cleavage) is located just to the left of this route, and this route is on the same face as Aretile Disfuction. Start on the bottom left corner of the rock, and work your way up and right.

There are no easy moves in this climb, but I think 5.11a is a generous rating. You'll swing around the corner in a fall, as the route is quite traversy feeling in regards to where to the bolts are, and getting back on route after a fall is almost impossible. Be sure to have your belayer standing solidly, or he / she may take quite a swing also.

For me doing the crux wasn't the hard part, but figuring out where to go AFTER the crux was quite difficult.

Protection Suggest change

3 bolt top anchor. Bring a long (20') sling to reduce rope drag. You need to climb either the 5.8 face or 5.3 Cote Memorial Wall climb to access the top of the rock to setup a toprope.

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