Indian Joe Caves Climbing

From the 680-580 interchange, take 680 south 8 miles to the highway 84/Calaveras road. Go left on Calaveras and follow it past where the speed limit drops to 25. Shortly after the speed limit change go left (4.3 miles from the turn onto Calaveras) on Geary Road. Shortly thereafter you'll reach the fee station.

After entering the park, pass the first left turn (about 50 yards in), which heads to the visitors center, and park just beyond on the left side of the road next to a trailhead (about another 50 yards). Hike across the wooden bridge over a stream, and head right at the junction. Continue another 50 yards until you come to Hayfield Road (which you're not allowed to drive on... though bikes and horses are permitted). Go left on Hayfield road and walk up the road for .8 miles. There's an obvious sign directing you to Indian Joe Caves, follow it right, you'll be able to see the crag up the hill on your left a little ways down this smaller trail. This will meet with the Indian Joe Creek Trail and continue up hill for another ~300 yards until you arrive at the crag. The first landmark is the tallest rock, with a sharp arete on the right, the arete is Orange Arete (11a) and the face is Little Eiger (12c). Paths circumnavigate the climbing area, and most of the warm-up stuff is reached fastest by going clockwise around the area to the backside.

The approach is 1.3 miles with 600 feet of elevation gain and fairly exposed (if taking Hayfield Rd - there is more shade using the Indian Joe Creek trail).