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Central Area (aka Edge Rock) Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Central Area (aka Edge Rock)

L › R R › L A › Z

	Arete to Left Face TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Aretial Dysfunction S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Assfault T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Bat Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4
	Cleavage Arete (Left Side) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Face It TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Freeway (AKA Squeeze) TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	On The Edge AKA Grin and Bear It TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Pull Up AKA Arete TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Yellow Brick Road TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c

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Elevation:	989 ft	301 m
GPS:	37.52499, -121.81785 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	2,639 total · 25/month
Shared By:	Jennifer H on Mar 9, 2016 · Updates
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

The central area is between Edge Rock, Little Eiger, Cote Memorial Wall and Cleavage Rock. It pretty much has climbable walls on all sides. It is sort of divided into two tiers with an upper platform and a lower platform. The trail drops you off at the upper tier, but you need to do a short scramble/down climb to get to the lower tier without rappelling (to access routes like bat crack).

There are 3 pairs of bolted anchors at the top of Edge Rock, 2 of which are useful for climbing in the central area. One set has shut ins installed (the one above Freeway/Pull Up/Arete).

Getting There

The easiest way get to this climbing area is to take the trail around the right, which takes up around the right and towards the top of Little Eiger. Then you can take the steep path down into the pit to get to the base of all the climbs in the Central Area.

To access the anchors, you need to climb up to Little Eiger, the the highest point in the Indian Joe Cave area. Then jump over "Hourglass" (the climb up the chimney from below) to the adjacent large boulder.

You can also use the anchors at the top of Little Eiger or sling the boulder to rappel to the top of Edge Rock.

It’s a little more difficult to access the anchors at the top of Cleavage Rock and Cote Memorial Wall. To set up a top rope you'll need to either lead or solo a route to get to the top. The Cleavage and Cote Memorial Crack are the easiest ways up.