Type: Sport, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches
GPS: 25.95021, -100.47533
FA: Dillan Kurtin, Thomas Cuthbert
Page Views: 516 total · 18/month
Shared By: Thomas Cuthbert on Nov 27, 2023 · Updates
Admins: Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Greg Hughes, Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description Suggest change

"Crag in the Sky" introduces its first route, destined to become a classic among climbers. Your journey begins on the left wall, reached just after the top of the fixed line from the fourth pitch of Lucy Goosey.

The route is split into two pitches, more for practical reasons related to rappelling than climbing, as a 70m rope wouldn't reach the ground from the top.

Pitch 1, a 5.7 climb with only 2 bolts, offers a straightforward climb to the anchors on a small ledge. It serves as an appetizer to the main event. (10m)

Pitch 2, rated at 5.11c and featuring 12 bolts, starts with a crimpy slab section, leading into a right-trending crack system. The route cuts back towards the left along the crack, steering you to the crux. This section requires thoughtful movement and reaches the crux just before a bulge. After the crux, you find finger jugs at the top. The entire route is well-protected, though extending the rightmost bolts is advised to minimize rope drag, especially if you're linking both pitches in a single climb. The pitch spans 30 meters.

The culmination of this climb is not just reaching the summit but the stunning ridge walk that follows. Standing at the peak, climbers don't just see the world below;  they witness the evolution of a Potrero classic, Lucy Goosey. This route at "Crag in the Sky" isn't merely a climb; it's a testament of perseverance, a ballet on the vertical stage, a symphony of movement and rock, marking an unforgettable experience in the climbing world.

The development of this route and the beginnings of "Crag in the Sky" was a collaborative effort by Morgan Smith, David Hagood, Dillan Kurtin, and Thomas Cuthbert.

Location Suggest change

Climb Super Nova, the first four pitches of Lucy Goosey, and then follow the fixed line to get to Crag in the Sky. This is a new crag that has a campfire ring and bivy spots for overnight camping. Pretty casual. Only 1200ft in the sky.

The route is on the wall to the left and follows the crack going up the middle of it.

Protection Suggest change

Fully bolted, including rap rings. 15 draws to link both pitches.

The crux of the second pitch is able to be french-freed.

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