Type: Sport, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches
FA: Bob Almond and Ed Wright
Page Views: 9,761 total · 47/month
Shared By: Danny Inman on Apr 1, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Greg Hughes, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Ricardo Orozco

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Description Suggest change

This route climbs the distinct light-colored wall at the very back of the canyon. The route starts at the bolt line to the right of Gusada Negra. There are only two lines of bolts here, so it's very easy to find.

The black rock and white cleaning scars are easily visible from the road. The climb offers good views in a unique position, and gets to a cool summit-ish ledge system way off the ground.

The climbing is somewhat atypical because of the style of rock that is exposed at this part of the formation. Many of the easy pitches climb sharply cut and large edges straight up the less-than-vertical wall.

P1 - 11a, follow bolts that trend up and slightly left. This pitch is quite good with finger locks, slabby moves and a crimp here and there. (30m)

An alternate 10d pitch (Gusada Negra) can be used as a slightly easier option.

P2 - 5.8, bolts up a left-facing corner/crack system (30m)

P3 - 5.6 lots of in-cut juggy holds (30m)

P4 - 5.6 similar to P3 (30m)

P5 - 5.9 face holds up to a right-facing corner (30m)

P6 - 5.6 big horizontals (30m)

P7 - head up for 20m and cut left pulling up on a slabby bulge to a hanging belay (25m).

P8 - follow low-angled terrain up and right to a belay just below the big ledge. (ends at fixed line- intact as of Jan '14)

Rappel the route to the base or continue up Lucy Goosey (see other page) for an extended adventure up to the highest summit on the east side of the park.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Potrero rack of draws, guide book says 12 draws