Type: Sport, 800 ft, 8 pitches
FA: Bob Almond and Ed Wright
Page Views: 5,060 total · 35/month
Shared By: Danny Inman on Apr 1, 2007
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route

102 Opinions

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This route climbs the distinct light-colored wall at the very back of the canyon. The route starts at the bolt line to the right of Gusada Negra. There are only two lines of bolts here, so it's very easy to find.

The black rock and white cleaning scars are easily visible from the road. The climb offers good views in a unique position, and gets to a cool summit-ish ledge system way off the ground.

The climbing is somewhat atypical because of the style of rock that is exposed at this part of the formation. Many of the easy pitches climb sharply cut and large edges straight up the less-than-vertical wall.

P1 - 11a, follow bolts that trend up and slightly left. This pitch is quite good with finger locks, slabby moves and a crimp here and there. (30m)
An alternate 10d pitch (Gusada Negra) can be used as a slightly easier option.

P2 - 5.8, bolts up a left-facing corner/crack system (30m)

P3 - 5.6 lots of in-cut juggy holds (30m)

P4 - 5.6 similar to P3 (30m)

P5 - 5.9 face holds up to a right-facing corner (30m)

P6 - 5.6 big horizontals (30m)

P7 - head up for 20m and cut left pulling up on a slabby bulge to a hanging belay (25m).

P8 - follow low-angled terrain up and right to a belay just below the big ledge. (ends at fixed line- intact as of Jan '14)

Rappel the route to the base.


Standard Potrero rack of draws, guide book says 12 draws
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
Stout first pitch, a complete ladder after that. With a 70 meter rope it's easy and speedy to do 2 pitches at a time. Mar 26, 2008
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
The first pitch is pretty damn stout and not like the rest of the route. There are some big chimneys full of packed, fractured rock that look worse than they are. You don't have to climb in the chimneys. The holds in places tend to angle downwards, so it's a bit different from other routes. This is probably due to the feature being a runoff gully. While an interesting route, no particular pitch really stands out as being that memorable. Apr 2, 2008
Many people prefer to do just the first pitch as there are so many other multi-pitch routes in EPC that have more consistent difficulty. Not a bad route though I probably wouldn't choose to repeat it. Jun 4, 2008
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Ok, you have an alternative to the first pitch, you can do gusada negra a really ugly 10d. It's also pretty hard. In fact, I think the 11a is easier!

The rest of the climb is a cake walk, good to do if it's a hot sunny day. You will be in the shade during most of your climbing, other than when you reach the top of the final pitch. It's a great climb for a budding leader, as long as you can get them through the first pitch.

The approach is terrible, lots of loose scree. It's about 30-40 minutes from the arroyo to the base of the climb. Jan 20, 2009
Matt Swartz
Camper van on the road.
Matt Swartz   Camper van on the road.
I'll second that. I was guiding some students on this climb and did it twice. Once I took them up the 11 which I onsighted, and once I took them up the 10 which I managed to fall on. Anyway, we linked every single pitch with a 60m rope. Enjoy. Oh, and we were lucky enough to find a victory cigar in the summit register, thanks! Apr 24, 2009
The approach is only terrible if you don't take the trail along the left side of the canyon and go straight up the scree!! Feb 8, 2010
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
I enjoyed this one. Except for the first pitch, the climbing is easy. The top is great and worthwhile. You can solo up the ridge on the left for a better view. Nov 7, 2010
Mark J Gain
Mark J Gain  
Moderatly fun route. The other routes in the canyon are netter quality. IMO May 24, 2011
Rob D.
Brooklyn, NY
Rob D.   Brooklyn, NY
Pitches can all be linked, but to link the last two pitches you have to stop at the sub anchor, not the summit anchor. Mar 29, 2014
Black Hawk, CO
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
Did both of the first pitches today (along with the rest of the climb), Gusada negra is good climbing, and quite sustained. I didn't find it "ugly", though not all nice and new and clean. Many holds are polished/slick which adds a bit more difficulty. I agree that it is the headier lead.

Also agree, I wouldn't repeat the whole route. The interesting climbing is in the variations of the first pitch.

Beware, if you climb to the top. there is a fair bit of loose rock. Easy to dislodge missles. Feb 7, 2016
Josiah Cooper
Lenexa, KS
Josiah Cooper   Lenexa, KS
For anyone finishing this route with some aches and pains, there is now a hit of acetaminophen in the summit cache! I onsighted the first pitch and we then started linking pitches. However linking pitches 6 and 7 leaves you with a really uncomfortable belay. I recommend only doing one pitch somewhere between pitches 1 and 5 and linking 5/6 and 7/8 unless you want some gnarly rope drag or are totally down with simul-climbing. An alpine draw or two really helps out when you're linking pitches like these too, as any traversing will otherwise generate a lot of drag. Dec 13, 2016
Jake Ryan
Gilbert, AZ
Jake Ryan   Gilbert, AZ
I enjoyed the first tougher pitch, earned the cruise to the ledge! The summit register was lodged in a ant orgy though, that was a funky surprise!

Rad climb up, zoned out, listened to the Mexican music and enjoyed the shade!

Rapping down sucks, have to stop at every one and the slabish angle crushes all attempts to throw a nice rap line.

Good day out, we really enjoyed it! Good for moderate climber pushing the grade. May 30, 2017
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
We simul-rapped with a second thinner cord, keeping the ropes flaked on slings. No tangled thrown rap lines getting caught on the abundant edges/ledges/plants. Jul 24, 2017
L L  
A fun easy route after the first pitch. Easy polished climbing that gives your fingers a break. At the summit you can unrope and walk around.

Bonus pitches:
I climbed 2 additional pitches above the summit. I suspect this is a project in the works. If you choose to climb this, be careful. The rock has not been sussed, and it is super loose.

Can't wait to see where this leads! This line has some serious top-out potential. Apr 9, 2018
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
My partner and I did this route in 2.5 hrs and we aren’t super fast or strong by any means.
I linked 1/2, he linked 3/4 then I linked 5/6/7 and we simul-climbed 8/5. I brought up 20 draws and skipped every other draw on 5/6/7/8 to be able to get all the way to the top. We had a 70m rope Jan 16, 2019