Avg: 2.6 from 148 votes
|Type:||Sport, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches|
|FA:||Bob Almond and Ed Wright|
|Page Views:||7,374 total · 42/month|
|Shared By:||Danny Inman on Apr 1, 2007 · Updates|
|Admins:||MAKB, Rudy Peckham, Hank Caylor, Ricardo Orozco|
The black rock and white cleaning scars are easily visible from the road. The climb offers good views in a unique position, and gets to a cool summit-ish ledge system way off the ground.
The climbing is somewhat atypical because of the style of rock that is exposed at this part of the formation. Many of the easy pitches climb sharply cut and large edges straight up the less-than-vertical wall.
P1 - 11a, follow bolts that trend up and slightly left. This pitch is quite good with finger locks, slabby moves and a crimp here and there. (30m)
An alternate 10d pitch (Gusada Negra) can be used as a slightly easier option.
P2 - 5.8, bolts up a left-facing corner/crack system (30m)
P3 - 5.6 lots of in-cut juggy holds (30m)
P4 - 5.6 similar to P3 (30m)
P5 - 5.9 face holds up to a right-facing corner (30m)
P6 - 5.6 big horizontals (30m)
P7 - head up for 20m and cut left pulling up on a slabby bulge to a hanging belay (25m).
P8 - follow low-angled terrain up and right to a belay just below the big ledge. (ends at fixed line- intact as of Jan '14)
Rappel the route to the base.