All Locations > International > North America > Mexico > Northern Mexico > Nuevo Leon > El Potrero Chico > Club Mex Wall
Avg: 2.4 from 71 votes
Routes in Club Mex Wall
|100 Bottles of Beer on the Wall S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Battle Royale (1st pitch) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Blazing Saddles S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Club Mex S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Conflict S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Devils Tongue, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Fear of Flying S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Gusada Negra S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Lucy Goosy S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Salty Dog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Sour Grapes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Super Nova S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Sword, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Tami's Pillar S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Telegram for Mongo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Worm, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Wright of Passage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Type:||Sport, 800 ft, 8 pitches|
|FA:||Bob Almond and Ed Wright|
|Page Views:||3,635 total, 28/month|
|Shared By:||Danny Inman on Apr 1, 2007|
|Admins:||MAKB, Ricardo Orozco|
DescriptionThis route climbs the distinct light-colored wall at the very back of the canyon. The route starts at the bolt line to the right of Gusada Negra. There are only two lines of bolts here, so it's very easy to find.
The black rock and white cleaning scars are easily visible from the road. The climb offers good views in a unique position, and gets to a cool summit-ish ledge system way off the ground.
The climbing is somewhat atypical because of the style of rock that is exposed at this part of the formation. Many of the easy pitches climb sharply cut and large edges straight up the less-than-vertical wall.
P1 - 11a, follow bolts that trend up and slightly left. This pitch is quite good with finger locks, slabby moves and a crimp here and there. (30m)
An alternate 10d pitch (Gusada Negra) can be used as a slightly easier option.
P2 - 5.8, bolts up a left-facing corner/crack system (30m)
P3 - 5.6 lots of in-cut juggy holds (30m)
P4 - 5.6 similar to P3 (30m)
P5 - 5.9 face holds up to a right-facing corner (30m)
P6 - 5.6 big horizontals (30m)
P7 - head up for 20m and cut left pulling up on a slabby bulge to a hanging belay (25m).
P8 - follow low-angled terrain up and right to a belay just below the big ledge. (ends at fixed line- intact as of Jan '14)
Rappel the route to the base.