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Routes in Club Mex Wall

100 Bottles of Beer on the Wall S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Battle Royale (1st pitch) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blazing Saddles S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Club Mex S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Conflict S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Devils Tongue, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fear of Flying S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gusada Negra S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lucy Goosy S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Salty Dog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sour Grapes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Nova S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sword, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tami's Pillar S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Telegram for Mongo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Worm, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wright of Passage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 800 ft, 8 pitches
FA: Bob Almond and Ed Wright
Page Views: 3,635 total, 28/month
Shared By: Danny Inman on Apr 1, 2007
Admins: MAKB, Ricardo Orozco

You & This Route


71 Opinions

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Description

This route climbs the distinct light-colored wall at the very back of the canyon. The route starts at the bolt line to the right of Gusada Negra. There are only two lines of bolts here, so it's very easy to find.

The black rock and white cleaning scars are easily visible from the road. The climb offers good views in a unique position, and gets to a cool summit-ish ledge system way off the ground.

The climbing is somewhat atypical because of the style of rock that is exposed at this part of the formation. Many of the easy pitches climb sharply cut and large edges straight up the less-than-vertical wall.

P1 - 11a, follow bolts that trend up and slightly left. This pitch is quite good with finger locks, slabby moves and a crimp here and there. (30m)
An alternate 10d pitch (Gusada Negra) can be used as a slightly easier option.

P2 - 5.8, bolts up a left-facing corner/crack system (30m)

P3 - 5.6 lots of in-cut juggy holds (30m)

P4 - 5.6 similar to P3 (30m)

P5 - 5.9 face holds up to a right-facing corner (30m)

P6 - 5.6 big horizontals (30m)

P7 - head up for 20m and cut left pulling up on a slabby bulge to a hanging belay (25m).

P8 - follow low-angled terrain up and right to a belay just below the big ledge. (ends at fixed line- intact as of Jan '14)


Rappel the route to the base.

Protection

Standard Potrero rack of draws, guide book says 12 draws
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
We simul-rapped with a second thinner cord, keeping the ropes flaked on slings. No tangled thrown rap lines getting caught on the abundant edges/ledges/plants. Jul 24, 2017
Jake Ryan
Gilbert, Arizona
  5.11a
Jake Ryan   Gilbert, Arizona
  5.11a
I enjoyed the first tougher pitch, earned the cruise to the ledge! The summit register was lodged in a ant orgy though, that was a funky surprise!

Rad climb up, zoned out, listened to the Mexican music and enjoyed the shade!

Rapping down sucks, have to stop at every one and the slabish angle crushes all attempts to throw a nice rap line.

Good day out, we really enjoyed it! Good for moderate climber pushing the grade. May 30, 2017
Josiah Cooper
Lenexa, KS
 
Josiah Cooper   Lenexa, KS
 
For anyone finishing this route with some aches and pains, there is now a hit of acetaminophen in the summit cache! I onsighted the first pitch and we then started linking pitches. However linking pitches 6 and 7 leaves you with a really uncomfortable belay. I recommend only doing one pitch somewhere between pitches 1 and 5 and linking 5/6 and 7/8 unless you want some gnarly rope drag or are totally down with simul-climbing. An alpine draw or two really helps out when you're linking pitches like these too, as any traversing will otherwise generate a lot of drag. Dec 13, 2016
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
Did both of the first pitches today (along with the rest of the climb), Gusada negra is good climbing, and quite sustained. I didn't find it "ugly", though not all nice and new and clean. Many holds are polished/slick which adds a bit more difficulty. I agree that it is the headier lead.

Also agree, I wouldn't repeat the whole route. The interesting climbing is in the variations of the first pitch.

Beware, if you climb to the top. there is a fair bit of loose rock. Easy to dislodge missles. Feb 7, 2016
Rob D.
Brooklyn, NY
 
Rob D.   Brooklyn, NY
 
Pitches can all be linked, but to link the last two pitches you have to stop at the sub anchor, not the summit anchor. Mar 29, 2014
Mark J Gain
  5.10c/d
Mark J Gain  
  5.10c/d
Moderatly fun route. The other routes in the canyon are netter quality. IMO May 24, 2011
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
I enjoyed this one. Except for the first pitch, the climbing is easy. The top is great and worthwhile. You can solo up the ridge on the left for a better view. Nov 7, 2010
The approach is only terrible if you don't take the trail along the left side of the canyon and go straight up the scree!! Feb 8, 2010
Matt Swartz
Los Angeles, CA
 
Matt Swartz   Los Angeles, CA
 
I'll second that. I was guiding some students on this climb and did it twice. Once I took them up the 11 which I onsighted, and once I took them up the 10 which I managed to fall on. Anyway, we linked every single pitch with a 60m rope. Enjoy. Oh, and we were lucky enough to find a victory cigar in the summit register, thanks! Apr 24, 2009
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Ok, you have an alternative to the first pitch, you can do gusada negra a really ugly 10d. It's also pretty hard. In fact, I think the 11a is easier!

The rest of the climb is a cake walk, good to do if it's a hot sunny day. You will be in the shade during most of your climbing, other than when you reach the top of the final pitch. It's a great climb for a budding leader, as long as you can get them through the first pitch.

The approach is terrible, lots of loose scree. It's about 30-40 minutes from the arroyo to the base of the climb. Jan 20, 2009
Many people prefer to do just the first pitch as there are so many other multi-pitch routes in EPC that have more consistent difficulty. Not a bad route though I probably wouldn't choose to repeat it. Jun 4, 2008
Stich Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Stich Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
The first pitch is pretty damn stout and not like the rest of the route. There are some big chimneys full of packed, fractured rock that look worse than they are. You don't have to climb in the chimneys. The holds in places tend to angle downwards, so it's a bit different from other routes. This is probably due to the feature being a runoff gully. While an interesting route, no particular pitch really stands out as being that memorable. Apr 2, 2008
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
Stout first pitch, a complete ladder after that. With a 70 meter rope it's easy and speedy to do 2 pitches at a time. Mar 26, 2008