Type: Sport, 700 ft (212 m), 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Morgan Smith, David Hagood, Tyler Lunsford FFA: Austin Laurent and Elliot Stahl
Page Views: 2,483 total · 26/month
Shared By: Morgan Smith on Mar 20, 2016
Admins: Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Ricardo Orozco

You & This Route

28 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

In "The Whole Enchilada," Dane Bass writes that the 8 pitch classic Supernova, put up by Magic Ed and Bob Almond, "stops frustratingly short and doesn't go up the second headwall to the top." Not anymore! Lucy Goosey (named for the marvelous Lucy Lunsford, who graciously allowed some wedding funds to be diverted into bolting it) continues up and over the second headwall, through some beautiful, spikey hidden gardens and past stubby spires, and up a few more pitches to the tallest summit on the east side of the park (for now). The route starts in the obvious chimney at the base of the second headwall and heads straight up, trending slightly left.

***This route is still new. Expect loose rock on the upper pitches and heavy vegetation. Bring gloves and wear pants for the lower class pitches up high to make the summit bid more enjoyable. As with any new long route in the canyon, it will likely take several ascents to blaze a solid trail up the route. In the meantime, enjoy a true Potrero adventure up new terrain before it is tamed!***

Approach- From the summit of Supernova, 1st class hike to the obvious headwall at the back of the canyon.

Pitch 1- 5.10a. Stem up through the chimney, move out onto the slab early and continue up to the first set of anchors. 8 bolts, 28m.

Pitch 2- 5.10c. Move left off the anchors to the dihedral area and continue upward. 7 bolts, 26m.

Pitch 3- 5.10b. Harder moves off anchors ease up quickly. Anchors at the top serve as a rap sub-station, ensuring one can rap off with a 60m rope. 4 bolts, 12m.

Pitch 4- 5.9. Romp up through nice holds and good stances to a comfy belay spot. 11 bolts, 30m.

Pitch 5- 3rd class. Traverse around the slope adjacent to the wall. Protected by 2 bolts around the edge of the traverse to anchors which can be clipped to protect the scramble up to the ledge. There was a palm frond bivy on top of the ledge, which makes for a nice break spot/place to overnight for funsies... it may be in disrepair now. Follow the trail dotted with cairns to the base of the next pitch.

Pitch 6- 5.7. Head up the obvious ramp, stemming in the corner up fun moves to the anchors. 8 bolts, 25m.

Pitch 7- 1st class hike to the base of next pitch. Follow trail and cairns through a garden of bleedin'.

Pitch 8- 5.10a. Easy start to a few hard moves to an easy finish. Follow the handline (installed 2/2020) up the scramble to the summit and register.

*Rap the route to the base for now, a 60m will do. Eventually, the plan is to set rap stations off the backside and into Los Lobos Canyon, allowing for an easy and quick ~4 pitch rap. Once this is complete, the page will be updated.*

Location Suggest change

From the summit of Supernova, take the small path up the left side of the canyon to the obvious wall at the back of the canyon.

Protection and Development Suggest change

Completed in February, 2020.1/2 inch SS bolts. Route development supported by Climbtech and the American Alpine Club. Access to the summit will facilitate route development over TNT, Vatican, and untouched areas on the east side...