Type: Sport, 700 ft (212 m), 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Morgan Smith, David Hagood, Tyler Lunsford FFA: Austin Laurent and Elliot Stahl
Page Views: 1,545 total · 24/month
Shared By: Morgan Smith on Mar 20, 2016
Admins: MAKB, Rudy Peckham, Hank Caylor, Ricardo Orozco

You & This Route


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Description

In "The Whole Enchilada," Dane Bass writes that the 8 pitch classic Supernova, put up by Magic Ed and Bob Almond, "stops frustratingly short and doesn't go up the second headwall to the top." Not anymore! Lucy Goosey (named for the marvelous Lucy Lunsford, who graciously allowed some wedding funds to be diverted into bolting it) continues up and over the second headwall, through some beautiful hidden gardens and past stubby spires, and up a few more pitches to the tallest summit on the east side of the park (for now). The route starts in the obvious chimney at the base of the second headwall and heads straight up, trending slightly left.

***This route is very new. Expect loose rock on the upper pitches. Climb with caution. As with any new long route in the canyon, it will likely take several ascents to blaze a solid trail up the route. In the meantime, enjoy a true Potrero adventure up new terrain before it is tamed! We think this route will clean up nicely and be another great easy long route, but until that point, we recommend that only seasoned EPC climbers head up. Current grades are the consensus of the FA and FFA parties only, so feel free to leave feedback.***

Approach- From the summit of Supernova, 1st class hike to the obvious headwall at the back of the canyon.
Pitch 1- 5.10a. Stem up through the chimney, move out onto the slab early and continue up to the first set of anchors. 8 bolts, 28m.
Pitch 2- 5.10c. Move left off the anchors to the dihedral area and continue upward. 7 bolts, 26m.
Pitch 3- 5.10b. Harder moves off anchors ease up quickly. Anchors at the top serve as a rap sub-station, ensuring one can rap off with a 60m rope. 4 bolts, 12m.
Pitch 4- 5.9. Romp up through nice holds and good stances to a comfy belay spot. 11 bolts, 30m.
Pitch 5- 3rd class. Traverse around the slope adjacent to the wall. Protected by 2 bolts around the edge of the traverse to anchors which can be clipped to protect the scramble up to the ledge. There is a palm frond bivy on top of the ledge, which makes for a nice break spot/place to overnight for funsies. It may be in disrepair now. Follow the clearly hacked trail dotted with cairns to the base of the next pitch.
Pitch 6- 5.7. Head up the obvious ramp, stemming in the corner up fun moves to the anchors. 8 bolts, 25m.
Pitch 7- 1st class hike to the base of next pitch. Follow clearly hacked trail and cairns through a garden of bleedin'.
Pitch 8- 5.10a. Easy start to a few hard moves to an easy finish. Follow the handline (installed 2/2020) up the scramble to the summit and register.

*Rap the route to the base, a 60m will do. Eventually, the plan is to set rap stations off the backside and into Los Lobos Canyon, allowing for an easy and quick ~4 pitch rap. Once this is complete, the page will be updated.*

Location

From the summit of Supernova, take the small path up the left side of the canyon to the obvious wall at the back of the canyon.

Protection and Development

Completed in February of 2020.1/2 inch SS bolts. Route development was supported in part by Climbtech and a Live your Dream Grant from the American Alpine Club. Access to the summit can facilitate route development over TNT, Vatican wall, and hitherto unknown areas on the east side.

Photos