Avg: 3 from 7 votes
|Type:||Sport, 700 ft (212 m), 8 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Morgan Smith, David Hagood, Tyler Lunsford FFA: Austin Laurent and Elliot Stahl|
|Page Views:||1,545 total · 24/month|
|Shared By:||Morgan Smith on Mar 20, 2016|
|Admins:||MAKB, Rudy Peckham, Hank Caylor, Ricardo Orozco|
***This route is very new. Expect loose rock on the upper pitches. Climb with caution. As with any new long route in the canyon, it will likely take several ascents to blaze a solid trail up the route. In the meantime, enjoy a true Potrero adventure up new terrain before it is tamed! We think this route will clean up nicely and be another great easy long route, but until that point, we recommend that only seasoned EPC climbers head up. Current grades are the consensus of the FA and FFA parties only, so feel free to leave feedback.***
Approach- From the summit of Supernova, 1st class hike to the obvious headwall at the back of the canyon.
Pitch 1- 5.10a. Stem up through the chimney, move out onto the slab early and continue up to the first set of anchors. 8 bolts, 28m.
Pitch 2- 5.10c. Move left off the anchors to the dihedral area and continue upward. 7 bolts, 26m.
Pitch 3- 5.10b. Harder moves off anchors ease up quickly. Anchors at the top serve as a rap sub-station, ensuring one can rap off with a 60m rope. 4 bolts, 12m.
Pitch 4- 5.9. Romp up through nice holds and good stances to a comfy belay spot. 11 bolts, 30m.
Pitch 5- 3rd class. Traverse around the slope adjacent to the wall. Protected by 2 bolts around the edge of the traverse to anchors which can be clipped to protect the scramble up to the ledge. There is a palm frond bivy on top of the ledge, which makes for a nice break spot/place to overnight for funsies. It may be in disrepair now. Follow the clearly hacked trail dotted with cairns to the base of the next pitch.
Pitch 6- 5.7. Head up the obvious ramp, stemming in the corner up fun moves to the anchors. 8 bolts, 25m.
Pitch 7- 1st class hike to the base of next pitch. Follow clearly hacked trail and cairns through a garden of bleedin'.
Pitch 8- 5.10a. Easy start to a few hard moves to an easy finish. Follow the handline (installed 2/2020) up the scramble to the summit and register.
*Rap the route to the base, a 60m will do. Eventually, the plan is to set rap stations off the backside and into Los Lobos Canyon, allowing for an easy and quick ~4 pitch rap. Once this is complete, the page will be updated.*