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Routes in Club Mex Wall

100 Bottles of Beer on the Wall S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Battle Royale (1st pitch) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blazing Saddles S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Club Mex S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Conflict S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Devils Tongue, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fear of Flying S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gusada Negra S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lucy Goosy S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Salty Dog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sour Grapes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Nova S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sword, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tami's Pillar S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Telegram for Mongo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Worm, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wright of Passage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: J. Jackson, J Preston, 1995.
Page Views: 378 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 31, 2009
Admins: MAKB, Ricardo Orozco

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Description

Not a great nor a bad climb... More mileage though. Grusada Negra can provide a slightly easier opening to Super Nova than the 5.11- start, or an extra pitch before or after the completion of that climb.
Mostly moderate climbing of edges leads to a mid-pitch crux and then back to more moderate climbing to the anchors. While this pitch is rated 10d and P1 of Super Nova is 11a, their grades felt relatively more like 10b and 10c, respectively.

Location

This climb is easily located by walking to the very back of Estrellas Canyon. As you go up the margin between the walls narrows progressively and at the very back there are the bolted pitches on the Left (Grusada Negra) and Right (P1 of Super Nova) which merge to a single bolted anchor.

Protection

8 bolts to the anchors as for P1 of Super Nova.

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