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Routes in Hinkey Summit
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Basque-ing in the Sun S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Belly Button S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Das Üntercling S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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DCMW S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Evasive Maneuvers S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lucky Pair a Dice S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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MuccLovin S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Solid Silver S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: | Sport, Alpine, 103 ft (31 m) |
| FA: | Mitch Vorwerk and Brooks Munyer, June 25, 2023 |
| Page Views: | 731 total · 36/month |
| Shared By: | Mitch Vorwerk on Jul 10, 2023 |
| Admins: | Lurk Er, Justin Johnsen |
Description
5.7/5.8, 31m, 11 bolts
A pleasant route that was first lead on marginal trad gear, now bolted for safety and enjoyment. Named after the erratic movements of the Mormon Crickets that plagued the route during the FA, the name is also fitting for the reaction of humans trying to avoid the crickets. But never fear, crickets are not typically at the crag and very rarely on the rock walls, this was a unique experience! Overall most of the climbing is 5.6ish but there are 2 well-protected cruxes that take a bit of technique to overcome. Bolt spacing is a bit further apart in a few places where the climbing is very easy.
Descent
Option 1: There are 2 anchor bolts with rap rings at the top of the route. Rap from here.
Option 2: If you go left around the corner a few feet past the rap ring anchor you can finish on the shared anchor for Das Üntercling & Lucky Pair of Dice. Clip those steel carabiners and lower off the route with a 70 meter rope.
*See anchors photo.
Protection
11 bolts. All bolts are glue-ins (6" Bolt Products Twisted Leg bolts with MKT Liquid Roc 500+ glue). Anchors have rap rings. Everything is stainless steel.
*Because the upper 1/2 of the route goes to the left quite a bit, it's highly recommended to TR off the dedicated rap rings (not the lower offs to the left) and have the follower clean all the draws. Having the leader clean the draws on the way back down involves a lot of shenanigans and down climbing much of the route, with a fairly substantial swing potential.
Location
Starting at the Belly Button route, you'll hike up a modestly steep gravel trail next to the climbing wall. Go past MuccLovin, Das Üntercling, and Lucky Pair of Dice. Evasive Maneuvers is the last route on the wall before you get to top of the gravel hill (and base of the gully). The route is about 10 ft to the left of the big gully.
*See the Hinkey Summit Overview photos on the Hinkey Summit page for topo maps.
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