Basque-ing in the Sun

Fun climb on the southern portion of the Hinkey Summit wall. Good rock quality on mostly vertical terrain with some short slabby sections as well as a few mini roofs. The wall is super featured & has a bunch of pockets.

Pitch #1 (5.10a, 32m, 11 bolts): A great pitch with jugs, pockets, side-pulls, crimps, face climbing, balancey slab moves, & a small roof/bulge. Clip the 1st bolt from a large circular hand-sized pocket. Climb through a few cruxes with some cryptic holds. Finish on huge mega pockets to a decent semi-hanging belay ledge.

Pitch #2 (5.8, 24m, 7 bolts): A juggy lower-angle pitch that has some good movement. Amble your way up the right side on easier terrain until it peters out, clipping a few bolts on the left wall along the way. Then swing around the corner to the left and pull another mini roof/bulge. Pitch ends under the huge roof. Belay off to the right side of the anchors on a flake ledge. Recommend linking with P1 if you have 19 draws.

Pitch #3 (5.10b/c, 35m, 15 bolts): Climb straight up from the anchors with a few balancy moves on thin holds, working your way up & then left to the massive undercling pocket. Then traverse up & left on huge juggy holds until reaching the 4th bolt where you start to cut back right. This next section has some cryptic holds, but also huge flakes, jugs, and enjoyable pockets. Cruxes are near the start and end of this pitch. Recommend bringing 2-3 extendable alpine draws. Belay on a good ledge near the top of the rock with fantastic views of Paradise Valley!

Rappelling the route is the only option to get down, there is no walk off. 3 rappels with a 70m rope.

Hardware: All bolts are glue-ins (6" Bolt Products Twisted Leg bolts with MKT Liquid Roc 500+ glue). All anchors stations are 2 bolt anchors with rap rings. Everything is stainless steel.

Draws: Bring 15 draws (consider 2-4 of them being extendable alpine draws). Bring 19 draws if you want to link pitches 1 & 2 (recommended).

Rope: 70m rope required (or two 60m ropes).

*Consider walkie talkies for communication, it can be difficult to impossible to hear your partner on pitch 3 because of the overhang, especially if it's windy.

On the southern summit wall, which could almost be considered a separate wall from the other established routes at the summit, as it's separated by some junky looking rock/cracks and a high shrub covered mound. This route is located about 60m to the right (SE) of "Evasive Maneuvers" and starts in the lowest area of the prominent wall. Look for the 1st bolt about 10ft off the ground next to a large 2-hand pocket.

*See the Hinkey Summit Overview photo for topo map.

Parking: There is a narrow pullout on the road below the Hinkey Summit Wall, or else park up at the summit pass and it's an easy and quick walk down.