Basque-ing in the Sun
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Type: | Sport, Alpine, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Mitch Vorwerk and Daniel McCormick, Sept 2, 2022 |
Page Views: | 1,034 total · 35/month |
Shared By: | Mitch Vorwerk on Sep 3, 2022 |
Admins: | Lurk Er, Justin Johnsen |
Description
Fun climb on the southern portion of the Hinkey Summit wall. Good rock quality on mostly vertical terrain with some short slabby sections as well as a few mini roofs. The wall is super featured & loaded w/pockets.
Pitch #1 (5.10a, 32m, 11 bolts): A great pitch with jugs, pockets, side-pulls, crimps, balancey slab moves, and a mini roof. Clip the 1st bolt from a large circular hand-sized pocket. Climb through a few cruxes w/a few cryptic holds. Finish on huge mega pockets to a semi-hanging belay ledge.
Pitch #2 (5.8, 24m, 7 bolts): A juggy lower-angle pitch that has some good movement. Climb up the right side until it peters out, clipping a few bolts on the left wall along the way. Then swing the around the corner to the left and pull another mini roof. Pitch ends just under the huge roof. Belay off to the right side of the anchors on a flake ledge. Recommend linking with P1 if you have 19 draws.
Pitch #3 (5.10b/c, 35m, 15 bolts): Climb straight up from the anchors w/ balancy moves on thin holds, eventually working your way up & to the left to the massive undercling pocket. Traverse up and left on huge juggy holds until reaching the 4th bolt where you start to cut back right. This next section has some cryptic holds, but also huge flakes, juggity jugs, and enjoyable pockets. Cruxes are likely near the start and at the end of this pitch- I think they feel 10b, but could very well be 10c... vote if you have an opinion! Consider 2-3 extended draws to reduce drag. Belay on a good ledge near the top of the rock with fantastic views of Paradise Valley!
Descent
Rappelling the route is the only option to get down, there is no walk off. 3 rappels with a 70m rope.
Protection
Hardware: All bolts are glue-ins (6" Bolt Products Twisted Leg bolts with MKT Liquid Roc 500+ glue). All anchors stations are 2 bolt anchors with rap rings. Everything is stainless steel.
Draws: Bring 15 draws (consider 2-4 of them being extendable alpine draws). Bring 19 draws if you want to link pitches 1 & 2 (recommended).
Rope: 70m rope required (or two 60m ropes).
*Consider walkie talkies for communication, it can be difficult to impossible to hear your partner on pitch 3 because of the overhang, especially if it's windy.
Location
This wall could almost be considered a separate wall from the other established routes at the summit, as it's separated by some junky looking rock/cracks and a high shrub covered mound. This route is located about 60m to the right (SE) of "Evasive Maneuvers" and starts in the lowest area of the prominent wall. Look for the 1st bolt about 10ft off the ground next to a large 2-hand pocket.
*See the Hinkey Summit Overview photo for topo map.
Parking: There is a narrow pullout on the road below the Hinkey Summit Wall, or else park up at the summit pass and it's an easy and quick walk down.
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