Type: | Sport, Alpine, 297 ft (90 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Mitch Vorwerk, Daniel McCormick, & Chantell Aubut Oct 21, 2023 |
Page Views: | 532 total · 26/month |
Shared By: | Mitch Vorwerk on Jan 20, 2023 · Updates |
Admins: | Lurk Er, Justin Johnsen |
Description
This route is Supergood and even though MuccLovin is relatively young, it's old enough to party! Dedicated to the good folks in Winnemucca (AKA The Mucc).
Pitch #1 (5.8/5.9, 35m, 17 bolts): Jugs, cracks, and pockets for days. So fun and a bit wandery. Anchors are shared with the uppermost anchors of the Belly Button route and are located on a good ledge a bit above and to the right of the cave. This pitch can easily be done as a single pitch sport route with a full 70m rope.
Pitch #2 (5.11, 30m, 15 bolts): Climb straight up through thin and balancey crux moves that likely involve a mantle, crimps, tiny pockets, and smear/stemming. Then move right to clip the 5th bolt. The climbing eases up a bit after this but remains fairly sustained for the rest of the pitch. Great climbing with lots of pockets and some nice red patina rock in the upper portion. Anchors are at a big belay ledge.
Pitch #3 (5.10-, 25m, 11 bolts): After clipping the first bolt and pulling the bulge, use the right arete for a bunch of side pulls. Then follow the bolt line up through pockets in more of that nice red patina. Anchors are near the top of the formation on the same ledge area as the rusty chain anchors for Don't Call Me White. 11 bolts
Descent
Either walk off or rappel the route (70m rope required).
Walk Off Option: Easy scramble up a bit more to the top and then traverse right (south) and downwards to get off the formation. A bit of exposed scrambling and down climbing, but easy. Once off the rock, head left (north) to meet up with the 4x4 road. Follow that road back down and around.
Rappel Option:
- 1st rap- Simply return to the 2nd pitch anchors.
- 2nd rap- A 34m rap straight down to the anchors of "The Belly Button" route in the cave (on the left side). This is an exciting rappel where you get to dangle mid air in the cave. Chill in the cave hammock while you wait for your partner to rap :)
- 3rd rap- Rap from the cave straight down to the ground.
*See the Hinkey Summit Overview photo on the Hinkey Summit page for rap station depictions.
Protection
The 1st pitch is equipped with glue-ins (6" Bolt Products Twisted Leg bolts with MKT Liquid Roc 500+ glue).
Pitches 2 and 3 are equipped with 3/8" x 3.5" Fixe Powers 5-piece bolts and 3/8" Fixe hangers.
All anchors stations are 2 bolt anchors with rap rings. Everything is stainless steel (except for the P3 anchors, stainless steel anchors will be added in 2025).
Location
This route starts between "The Belly Button" route and Das Üntercling.
*See the Hinkey Summit Overview photo on the Hinkey Summit page for topo map.
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