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Paradise Valley Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 7,967 ft | 2,428 m |
| GPS: |
41.66886, -117.54578 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 20,288 total · 231/month | |
| Shared By: | James Garrett on Jun 19, 2019 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Lurk Er, Justin Johnsen |
Description
Northern Nevada’s multi-pitch sport climbing paradise and low-key vacation destination! Paradise Valley has some stellar climbing, short approaches (1-15 min), sweeping landscape views, a unique mid-wall hammock, very few other climbers, a cowboy bar, and a nearby hot spring for post-climb relaxation soaks. It’s a very serene and beautiful place to climb and is definitely worth popping in for a day but also has plenty of routes to sustain an enjoyable 2-3 day weekend.
The rock is comprised of innumerous granitic/welded tuff domes, towers, and outcroppings. There’s a variety of climbs that range from 5.6-5.11+, so there is a little something here for everybody. While there may only be 25 routes, there are 65 pitches with nearly 6,000 ft of vertical climbing- that’s an average of 2.6 pitches per route & 28 meters per pitch! A 70-meter rope and set of 15 draws will get you up most of the pitches, but there are a few routes that need 16-17 draws. Almost all of the routes here are fully bolted sport climbs, but there are also a few worthwhile trad/mixed routes.
The local land managers are very friendly and accommodating. All of the climbs are on US Forest Service land, but there are some private inholdings along the Hinkey Summit Road.
Season
Paradise Valley has fairly sunny walls that are mostly west or SW facing. The crags are at a relatively high elevation, ranging from 7,000 ft (base of The Cleft) to 8,150 ft (top of the Hinkey Summit Wall).
One of the best times to climb here is in the springtime (approx. May 15-July 15th), as soon as the roads are passable from snow. The flowers are all blooming and the mountains are still snowcapped, just beautiful! The fall season (approx. Sept 1- Nov 1st) is also very nice and you might get to see the aspens turning yellow.
The summertime (July/Aug) is doable too, but it's recommended to bring a sun hoody & try to hit the walls in the morning (or late evening) since most of them are west-facing. There are a few shady climbs on the east side of the Chocolate Chip and the west side of the Iron Horse wall has morning shade. Hinkey Summit is also typically cooler than the Cleft area, because of the higher elevation. The breezes & elevation can both do wonders for summer climbing up at the summit!
The weather.gov weather recommendations on each of the mountain project pages is also pretty darn accurate for weather predictions. If the breeze is low and the sun is out, it's usually about 10 degrees warmer on the walls than the forecast.
Getting There
From Winnemucca, drive north out of town on Melarkey Street (I kid you not!) and continue north on Hwy 95 for about 22 miles until you reach the Sinclaire gas station on your right. Turn east onto Hwy 290 and drive about 18 miles until you reach the town of Paradise Valley. Drive slowly through town, the locals will appreciate it. At the north end of town, take a right at the T intersection. Then drive across the bridge and turn left (north) onto the Hinkey Summit Road (NF-084), following the sign for Hinkey Summit. Reset your odometer at the start of this road. After 3 miles, you’ll cross a cattleguard and the pavement ends. Continue up the unpaved road, eventually winding your way through a bunch of switchbacks. Navigate to one of the following parking spots:
Iron Horse Parking (12 miles): 41.652385° -117.546400°
The Cleft & Chocolate Chip Parking (13 miles): 41.657783°, -117.549210°
Hinkey Summit Parking (15 miles): 41.670423°, -117.547140°
Honeycombs Parking (18 miles): 41.688797° -117.516535°
*Hinkey Summit Road can be a bit curvy and bumpy. Medium to high clearance vehicles will be the most comfortable, but even a lifted Prius has been spotted up there on occasions! Please drive slowly and watch out for cattle, wildlife, and other drivers. Please be respectful when parking along the Hinkey Summit Road and be aware that large trucks with cattle or ATV trailers may need to get past.
* In the early spring, lingering snow may restrict access. There will often be a sign in Paradise Valley (the town) that says that the Hinkey Summit road is closed. The road is never “actually” closed or gated, but if the sign is up then there is snow somewhere on the road and you likely can’t drive all the way through because the Forest Service does not ever plow the road. However, you can sometimes still drive up to the climbing crags and I’ve climbed there many times while disregarding the road closed sign.
Amenities
TOILETS: The nearest pit toilets to the climbing crags are located about 100 ft NE of the old 4-H Clubhouse at Hinkey Summit. These toilets no longer have walls or doors (but are surrounded by trees) and it's definitely a bring your own TP situation! GPS: 41.67149, -117.54722
CAMPING: Camping is available at Lye Creek Campground, just 3 miles north of Hinkey Summit. These sites have picnic tables, campfire rings, vault toilets, and potable water. The campground is typically open from June-October, as weather and conditions allow. The fees for overnight use are: $8/night for a single site, $10/night for a double site, and $25/night for a group site. GPS: 41.68523°, -117.55853°. fs.usda.gov/r04/humboldt-to…
SINCLAIR GAS STATION: The nearest spot to get gas, snacks, beer, and use a flushing toilet is at the Sinclair Dino Mart at the intersection of Hwy 95 & Hwy 290. GPS: 41.28616°, -117.69067°.
PARADISE VALLEY (the town) & THE SALOON: Paradise Valley is a wonderful ghost town-like little town, only it is inhabited and the one remaining local establishment, the Paradise Valley Saloon, simply rocks. Swing on by to enjoy a beer, Picon Punch (a strong Basque mixed drink), or a burger in a fun cowboy bar atmosphere. They usually have steak night on most Saturday evenings, but you have to call ahead earlier in the week for reservations, 775- 578-3090. Paradise Valley Saloon GPS: 41.49216°, -117.53452°.
WINNEMUCCA: The nearest full-service town is Winnemucca, NV. It has a number of grocery stores, hardware stores, gas stations, a Walmart, a Big R, restaurants, etc. It's located about an hour south of the Paradise Valley climbing area.
Classic Climbing Routes at Paradise Valley
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