Type: Sport, 40 ft (12 m)
GPS: 34.47098, -119.68953
FA: Sam Fearer, Spring 2023
Page Views: 378 total · 11/month
Shared By: Sam Fearer on Jun 27, 2023
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Hands down the coolest stretch of rock I’ve climbed in town. Scoping, cleaning, bolting, sussing, and finally sending this rig will forever be my proudest contribution to local climbing. A truly rewarding experience, and a huge thanks to all who helped.

Rare for the area, and damn good beyond…

From the base, stick clip or move confidently to gain a high first bolt. Enter the corner and snazz your way to a no hands rest. Regain any lost composure here and prepare for what lies above. A cruxy run and 12 or so moves later, you’ll know how it went down. 

The upper section of this route is an exercise in subtle and precise execution. Movement that at first seems burly and desperate eventually yields to an almost sleep-like flow. Sounds of the creek, birds, and distant-but-visible harbor create an ideal and serene environment. Could it get much better? I, for one, don’t think so. 

The route faces southeast and enjoys late afternoon shade. If you’re lucky, you’ll have an audience of paragliders floating above for support. 

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***Please note that this route was bolted to follow a natural movement sequence. While a sport climb, it makes a rather bold lead— even with good beta. The rest ledge is a mixed blessing and should be taken seriously. Pre-hang, pre-clip, pre-view, and extend as needed. But most importantly: Know thy limits. (PG-13 if you're going for the onsight... easy clip if not)

…And in the spirit of good housekeeping, please remove tick marks to preserve a sense of discovery for others. Enjoy!

Location Suggest change

Uphill from Goldline (12a) and downhill from Golden Boy (11a).

Protection Suggest change

draws

Historical Note Suggest change

Local gravity fighter Andy Patterson shared that some variation of this route was previously attempted on TR without using the crack (fully choked prior to 2022). Details about how it went down are hazy… but if anyone could, it would be him.

Photos

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