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Routes in Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (including Upper and Lower Alchemist)

Cupcakes & Champagne S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fun in the Sun S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
King Snake Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Labrador Ate the Cupcakes, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tender Flakes of Mercy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ugly Duckling S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Written Exam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 195 ft
FA: Patrick Callery & Matthew Fienup (Aug 2014)
Page Views: 731 total · 17/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 7, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Use the first 4 bolts of Tender Flakes of Mercy to access an excellent layback crack that begins 80 feet off the deck. Layback this crack past tiny to small gear for about 40 feet. Just before the crack becomes dirty and vegetated, step up on to the face above the crack and climb straight up past 3 bolts to the top of the wall. Belay from an anchor shared with Tender Flakes of Mercy.

While it is possible to climb this route as one massive pitch, it is highly recommended that it be broken in to two to avoid overwhelming rope drag. With a little creativity, it is possible to belay at the 3rd lead bolt.

Rappel as for Tender Flakes of Mercy.

Location

The route starts as for Tender Flakes of Mercy. From that route's 4th bolt, traverse left for 10 feet to access the start of the layback crack.

Protection

Bolts and gear from tiny to 2 inches. Consider carrying a double set of TCUs and two green camalots.

In keeping with the style established by Forkash & Anderson on the nearby route Fun in the Sun, the bolt count on this route was kept low. There is 40 feet of climbing above the route's last bolt. Take time to find a 1.5" cam placement above the last bolt or face a harrowing runout.

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
Unfortunately, the creative gear placements are at waist level or lower...making for a less than ideal belay ledge. In this photo, the masterpoint would be well below waist-level.

Aug 21, 2014
The natural spot to belay is on the wide ledge left of 4th bolt, where the crack starts (this is below and left of Tender Flakes anchor). However this will require some creative gear placements for a secure anchor. Bring extra small cams. Aug 21, 2014
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
This crack was surely climbed by Forkash & Anderson during the development that took place in the 80s, although their route likely continued up the crack to a large oak tree out left. It was also top-roped by Andy Patterson over a year ago (when he found a piton in the main crack). Aug 8, 2014