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Routes in Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (including Upper and Lower Alchemist)

Cupcakes & Champagne S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fun in the Sun S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
King Snake Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Labrador Ate the Cupcakes, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tender Flakes of Mercy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ugly Duckling S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Written Exam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: (likely) Mike Forkash & Gary Anderson, 1980. Bolts replaced by Fienup & Callery, 2014.
Page Views: 191 total, 7/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 25, 2015
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

True old school adventure. There are just enough bolts to keep you off the ground (probably). There is just enough loose rock to make for genuine excitement. And the bolts are located near stances, NOT near crux moves.

Start on a boulder, 15 feet below the first bolt. Delicately climb over a detached flake to make it to the first clip. Five bolts of slab climbing lead to ledges and then to the rappel tree. The 5.9 crux of the route occurs well above the first bolt, just before reaching the second. If holds give way and you fall, you'll need an attentive belay to keep you off the ground. There is a second, poorly protected crux just below the fifth bolt. Generally, the rock quality is better if you follow a line to the right of the bolts.

Location

The route starts 40 feet to the left of Tender Flakes. The best way to access the start is to rappel Tender Flakes. It is possible but inadvisable to scramble up the gully (through a nearly impassable bay tree) to the start of the route.

Protection

All five aging lead (as in Pb) drop-in bolts have been replaced with shiny 1/2" Rawls. You might also like TCUs or other small gear to place between the fifth bolt and the tree.

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
With climbing, you should always round up ;) Aug 25, 2015
Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Jeff Mahoney   Santa Barbara, CA
 
Thanks for the work retro'ing this, Matthew. (Is the rap line gone now? That thing was getting a bit "crunchy," eh?)

As I mentioned elsewhere, this route is worth doing if you're up there, but it really pales in comparison to "Tender Flakes" and "Fun..." (1-star means "OK" so that's my vote, maybe "OK-and-a-half" if it cleans up, but I'm just a whiner so take that with a grain of sand---which you'll have plenty of down low on the route... ;-) Aug 25, 2015
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
It is possible, and quite enjoyable, to connect Written Exam with the top of King Snake Crack. You'll need an extra quickdraw and a couple of additional small cams to link these two safely. You can also top-rope this link-up from the anchor atop Tender Flakes & King Snake Crack. Aug 25, 2015