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Routes in Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (including Upper and Lower Alchemist)

Cupcakes & Champagne S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Fun in the Sun S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
King Snake Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Labrador Ate the Cupcakes, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tender Flakes of Mercy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ugly Duckling S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Written Exam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type: Sport, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Forkash and Gary Anderson, 1980
Page Views: 1,493 total · 31/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Sep 27, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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A wonderful slab outing! Bring a picnic for the summit, which is pretty hard to beat. Fun in the Sun tackles the plumb line of the Upper Alchemist, and ascends a sea of beautiful patina, seams, and slab. I've led the route as one looong pitch, but I barely made it to the top before running out of rope. I highly recommend breaking the route in to two pitches.



Center of Upper Alchemist. Just right of Tender Flakes of Mercy.


A rack of 8 draws and some pieces to 1.5" will provide occasional protections. There are some healthy runouts, but the bolts are where you need them. As of Summer 2014, myself and Matthew Fienup replaced the old 1/4" bolts with beefy 1/2" Rawls.

To Descend: rap the route with a 70m, and do two raps to the ground.
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.8+ R
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.8+ R
For the less adventurous, there is detailed beta here. Sep 28, 2014
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Thanks for the detailed description, Matthew! You beat me to the punch. I was in the middle of drawing some more maps when I saw your description. I'll put out an "overview map" soon, but I wanted to get something up about this route. Sep 28, 2014
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.8+ R
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.8+ R
Here's the view, from the summit of Fun in the Sun - starting with Gibraltar Rock, high on the hillside and finishing with the ocean. The climber is Patrick Callery.… Sep 29, 2014
I can't believe this route sat untouched for so many years. Thanks Andy & Matthew for replacing the bolts and giving me that first lead... Oct 10, 2014
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.8+ R
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.8+ R
To be clear, it was Andy's vision and hard work that we should be grateful for. I was a late arrival in Rattlesnake Canyon. And Andy told me how incredible this route is fully a year before I finally got on it. Thank you, Andy. Oct 12, 2014
Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
  5.8 PG13
Jeff Mahoney   Santa Barbara, CA
  5.8 PG13
Finally (hooray!) got on this and the other routes yesterday. Great position, movement and fun. The bolt placements are where you want them and a couple of finger pieces will probably ease the mind, but if you're used to runouts, it's not bad. (If your limit is 5.8, you will probably not enjoy this route.) And like Andy said, make it a two-pitch deal---even then the diagonal across the headwall at the top is tugging you in the wrong direction. I can imagine doing it in one long pitch, but I'd rather not ;-) Great work putting this rig back on the radar! Aug 9, 2015
I see that the description mentions requiring a 70m rope to rappel. Is it not possible to climb and rap down using a 60m rope? Dec 15, 2015
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.8+ R
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.8+ R
Correct. You need a 70m rope to rappel the route.

With a 60m rope, you can walk over to the top of Tender Flakes and rappel that route. Dec 16, 2015
Left a C4 #1 Camalot in a crack on Fun in the Sun on 4.3.16. If someone gets to it before me, please give me a shout out. Thank you. Apr 20, 2016
Alex DeGolia
Carbondale, CO
  5.8 PG13
Alex DeGolia   Carbondale, CO
  5.8 PG13
Very fun route and fine position. Stunning summit. Overall enjoyable outing. Andrew, we were out there last week and didn't see a C4. Hopefully you already nabbed it. Apr 20, 2016

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