Type: Trad, 65 ft (20 m)
GPS: 47.8254, -121.5582
FA: unknown
Page Views: 269 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on May 1, 2023
Admins: Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan

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Description Suggest change

A slab climb one pitch up that dries very quickly after a rain. Shady in the afternoon.

The main apron upper slab is bordered by two aretes, the one on the left goes along pitch 3 of Steel Pulse, the one on the right is this route. You can start Jello on the right, however, the best start lies in the middle, via the "5.8 crack" of Bad Reputation. (In quotes because it appears in old guidebooks as 5.8, though it feels more like 10a.) After this thin crack, traverse right to the arete (~10b), clipping one bolt. The start on the right is much easier. 

Once at the first bolt on the arete, continue up past a few more. As you get higher, the angle eases off. Trend right to one of the two bolted anchors nearly at the same level as the upper overlap (level of the top of Steel Pulse). Rap from the rightmost anchor, or if you want more friction, continue up easier ground to the belay at the base of Dimples, Pimples, and Pointy Things.

This route provides friction slab climbing on the apron without the runouts of Bad Reputation. It is about the same difficulty, though well protected by bolts. 

For a preparation pitch, do Sastrugi to the base of this climb. Sastrugi may seem slightly harder.   

Location Suggest change

Starts off the Jolly Pocket, about 20' right of the start to p3 of Steel Pulse. 

Protection Suggest change

A few small stoppers, about 7 quickdraws. 

If you plan to continue to the top, bring along a few cams of ~2-4" and a few larger stoppers (or small cams).

Photos

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