Type: Trad, 115 ft (35 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 340 total · 32/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on Jul 25, 2022
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Description

A long, lower-angle trad pitch that takes one to the friction slabs above. 

Start with a selection of cracks and laybacks that merge into a deep, low-angle groove. Follow this mellow groove past a few hand pods to an obstructing bulge. At the bulge, one veers right to follow a series of three cracks of finger size (~1") or less on relatively low-angle, high-friction terrain. Very clean and grippy rock, somewhat consistent in difficulty throughout, yet with frequent rest stances. 

 One should be confident at 5.8 trad due to the need to place small wired nuts, though probably no move would be considered that difficult. Also helpful, particularly if it hasn't been ascended in months, is to have a nut tool in case some good placements have filled with debris. The bottom groove in particular tends to collect tree debris.  

The last ~50 feet of this route are likely the old "easier variation start" to Bad Reputation. 

Do a short 5.8 pitch after this one to reach the Jolly P- ledge and access to more low-angle slab routes (e.g., Steel Pulse, Bad Reputation, Jello on the Table). 

Location

One starts in the same groove as Stars, then goes right at the bulge, to later trend back left to rejoin Stars. From the first anchor, one can TR Stars and other lines from the ground with a 70 m (just barely). 

Protection

Small wired nuts and cams, plus one or two pieces to fit in 3" wide hand pods in the groove. After the groove, the largest crack size is about 1". Helpful to have a large nut near the end, where the thin crack merges back with the Stars crack.

Photos