Defeat Baron Greenback E13 A4 Second Ascent #mustacknowledge
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 340 total · 32/month |
Shared By: | Jon Nelson on Jul 25, 2022 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters |
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Description
A long, lower-angle trad pitch that takes one to the friction slabs above.
Start with a selection of cracks and laybacks that merge into a deep, low-angle groove. Follow this mellow groove past a few hand pods to an obstructing bulge. At the bulge, one veers right to follow a series of three cracks of finger size (~1") or less on relatively low-angle, high-friction terrain. Very clean and grippy rock, somewhat consistent in difficulty throughout, yet with frequent rest stances.
One should be confident at 5.8 trad due to the need to place small wired nuts, though probably no move would be considered that difficult. Also helpful, particularly if it hasn't been ascended in months, is to have a nut tool in case some good placements have filled with debris. The bottom groove in particular tends to collect tree debris.
The last ~50 feet of this route are likely the old "easier variation start" to Bad Reputation.
Do a short 5.8 pitch after this one to reach the Jolly P- ledge and access to more low-angle slab routes (e.g., Steel Pulse, Bad Reputation, Jello on the Table).
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