Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Jeff Kelly, Dan Klimke, Gary Buckham, 1983. FFA: Jeff Kelly, Jeff Boucher, Matt Arksey, 1987
Page Views: 1,206 total · 24/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Mar 12, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper Cheeks Details

Description

I was looking at the Cummins guide and it lists this as 10c, so I am guessing that must have been the first ascents assessment and that Cramer downgraded it to 10b.
We climbed the 1st pitch on a warm January day 2014. I red pointed it again in March 2015. It is a really good 1st pitch, interesting variety of climbing, well bolted at crux moves, great pro everywhere else. Don't let the mossy start scare you off.Most of the pitch is clean, the start is 5.8 at most.
The first crux is a short slab traverse past 3 bolts into right facing corner, 2nd crux is leaving the crack as it tapers off, going for thin flake, 2 more bolts and then the anchor.
100' pitch, 10b
As with any slab/face moves, conditions can really effect the outcome. Cool dry days are best.

Pitch 2 , short 60' pitch, 10b slab crux near start before and after 1st bolt, 2nd bolt protects slab till you gain left end of small overlap. 2nd crux balance move on short slab below anchor.

Pitch 3, 100', starts with nice layback cracks, 3 bolts protect upper slab. 10c
After passing the 1st bolt (1st crux), there is a hidden pocket- good for a BD #2. There are 2 bolts above here (2nd crux, 10c). Some gear protects the easy top of pitch.

One could combine pitch 1 and 2, or 2 and 3 if wanted.

Location

This route is on the right end of the crag. Dukes of the Stratosphere (11d) is on the left and a bolted variation (Scratch and Claw) is just right of this corner start.There is a roof that you lay-back around and 3 bolts visible above from the variation that comes in from the right side. It is just below and left of the steep gully trail to the top of Lookout point.

Protection

Standard rack to 2". Newer anchor at top of 1st pitch ( asca hangers ), can rap with single 60 meter rope. Bolted anchor top of 2nd pitch.Bolted Rap Anchor at top of 3rd pitch, Single rope rap from 3rd anchor to 2nd belay anchor, be careful not to swing into gully as the rap is not a plumb line.

Photos

derekpearson Pearson
Snohomish, WA
derekpearson Pearson   Snohomish, WA
I did the whole route a long time ago and remember it was really good. The run out is a little bigger on the last pitch then the well bolted p1 . Mar 17, 2015
wayne wallace
Seattle
  5.10+
wayne wallace   Seattle
  5.10+
It doesnt seem so run out now, just really stiff friction climbing. Jun 1, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10c
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10c
cleaned 1st pitch labor day weekend 2016. Sep 8, 2016
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
Thanks Geoff! Sep 9, 2016
Ben Gilkison
Tacoma
Ben Gilkison   Tacoma
Finally had the opportunity to climb this on Saturday--as this had been on my want list since the late 90's. The first crux on pitch 1 was by far the hardest one for me; and IMO it felt harder than 5.10 and reminded me of the difficulties found on routes like Magic Carpet Ride (11c) or Dancing in the light...though, I think this was probably related to my 4'11 height as stature and reach probably matter in this section. I elected to lead pitch 2 and 3 combined for quite a rope stretcher. Excellent climb!! Conditions were cool and I couldn't fathom climbing this in normal warm/sunny conditions. Thanks for all those whom have kept this route clean. Sent this route right after climbing the classic Act of Strange boar and Ship Black Rock something and by comparison Steel Pulse felt number grade harder. Aug 26, 2018
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10c
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10c
Hi Ben, great to hear the feedback having worked on this route. Sorry about the reachy 1st pitch crux, even being tall it is hard, but probably much easier. I have to make a ridicules high left foot on a bad bump to balance over till I can reach into the flaring corner, I have redpointed it about 3 times and fallen on it about 3 times. Curious what you thought of the 3rd pitch slab crux, maybe 2 hard spots, the lower one right after the cracks run out I added a bolt after several people fell there, falling down onto the lower slab below the little roof. I had one angry response to this bolt about it ruining the nature of the climb, maybe they chopped it? Aug 27, 2018