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Routes in Lookout Point

A Group of Mysteries of Frenchwoman T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Hatch T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
A Ship Called Black Rock T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
An Act of Strange Boar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
And Say T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Baby Tapir T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Below Lissen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bobcat Cringe T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bowling to Biscuits T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
He is Truly a Great Airplane (Hitaga) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
House of the 7th Bobcat T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Law and Order T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peanuts To Serve You T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Purple Kool-Aid T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rice Krispies T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solitude T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Steel Pulse T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
This is Index Not L.A. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Velvet Pedestal, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
You can cool Jack Robinson T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Jeff Kelly, Dan Klimke, Gary Buckham, 1983. FFA: Jeff Kelly, Jeff Boucher, Matt Arksey, 1987
Page Views: 806 total, 24/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Mar 12, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

I was looking at the Cummins guide and it lists this as 10c, so I am guessing that must have been the first ascents assessment and that Cramer downgraded it to 10b.
We climbed the 1st pitch on a warm January day 2014. I red pointed it again in March 2015. It is a really good 1st pitch, interesting variety of climbing, well bolted at crux moves, great pro everywhere else. Don't let the mossy start scare you off.Most of the pitch is clean, the start is 5.8 at most.
The first crux is a short slab traverse past 3 bolts into right facing corner, 2nd crux is leaving the crack as it tapers off, going for thin flake, 2 more bolts and then the anchor.
100' pitch, 10b
As with any slab/face moves, conditions can really effect the outcome. Cool dry days are best.


Pitch 2 , short 60' pitch, 10b slab crux near start before and after 1st bolt, 2nd bolt protects slab till you gain left end of small overlap. 2nd crux balance move on short slab below anchor.

Pitch 3, 100', starts with nice layback cracks, 3 bolts protect upper slab. 10c
After passing the 1st bolt (1st crux), there is a hidden pocket- good for a BD #2. There are 2 bolts above here (2nd crux, 10c). Some gear protects the easy top of pitch.


One could combine pitch 1 and 2, or 2 and 3 if wanted.

Location

This route is on the right end of the crag. Dukes of the Stratosphere (11d) is on the left and a bolted variation (Scratch and Claw) is just right of this corner start.There is a roof that you lay-back around and 3 bolts visible above from the variation that comes in from the right side. It is just below and left of the steep gully trail to the top of Lookout point.

Protection

Standard rack to 2". Newer anchor at top of 1st pitch ( asca hangers ), can rap with single 60 meter rope. Bolted anchor top of 2nd pitch.Bolted Rap Anchor at top of 3rd pitch, Single rope rap from 3rd anchor to 2nd belay anchor, be careful not to swing into gully as the rap is not a plumb line.

Photos

Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Thanks Geoff! Sep 9, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
 
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
 
cleaned 1st pitch labor day weekend 2016. Sep 8, 2016
wayne wallace
Seattle
  5.10+
wayne wallace   Seattle
  5.10+
It doesnt seem so run out now, just really stiff friction climbing. Jun 1, 2015
I did the whole route a long time ago and remember it was really good. The run out is a little bigger on the last pitch then the well bolted p1 . Mar 17, 2015