Type: Trad, Ice, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches
GPS: 44.20791, -73.71403
FA: unknown
Page Views: 297 total · 8/month
Shared By: Gunkiemike on Dec 15, 2022
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

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Description Suggest change

The easiest and longest route at LN. After the relative steepness of the start, it climbs like a baby version of Chouinard's Gully. Generally requires short screws.

Location Suggest change

As you're hiking up, when the main cliff just comes into view, turn left and walk maybe 250 ft, You will pass under a couple attractive flows spilling over a short cliff band (these are worth doing). Irene's is the left-most flow of this area. The smears immediately to the right are fun too.

Protection Suggest change

Irene's is generally the first line at LN to come into leadable shape. When it's thin, you might get 13s in the starting pillar, but it's going to be stubbies once you're on the slab above. Later in the season things get fat and it's casual. A stance in the trees on the left makes for a good belay after 80 feet, and a second easy pitch leads to the top, where there's a rap anchor. (Dec 2024 update - there is no top anchor. I didn't look to see if the right-side intermediate anchor is still there.) Two ropes will get you down, or stop at an intermediate anchor on climbers' right (this is the TR anchor tree for the smears).

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