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Fingerberry Jam
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 4 from 4
votes
Routes in Pigeon Feathers
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Electric Funeral T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Fingerberry Jam T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Furry Friends T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Lentils or TVP, eh? T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Solitary Confinement T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 700 ft (212 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 50.74314, -116.76947 |
| FA: | Topher Donahue, Patience Gribble, August 2000 |
| Page Views: | 588 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Mathias Arroyo Begin on Aug 31, 2022 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL
Details
BC Parks is aware of a rockfall incident that occurred on December 23, 2022 on the north end of Snowpatch Spire in Bugaboo Park. The natural occurring event triggered a significant deposit of rock into the glacial basin below, however no park facilities were impacted by the debris. The area involved is a popular recreation area during the operational season (July to September). With this in mind BC Parks has implemented a Closure Area (Travel Not Permitted – Section 17 (Park Act)) and a Rockfall Hazard Zone (Travel Not Recommended) in the localized incident area (February 1 – July 15, 2023) until more information becomes available.
Description
Fingerberry jam follows thin cracks from sharp to flaring with a short face traverse. Continuous and comfortable (some are flaring and very comfy for foot jams) face cracks on the first three pitches combined with the face traverse make this climb gorgeous and memorable.
Start on a snow slope, at the base of the left arching fingercrack that reaches a short roof.
- P1: Climb a wet dyke and step left to reach the magnificent left slanting fingercrack. Move quickly on thin locks to reach a bellay at the base of a roof. (5.11)
- P2: Engage the roof and follow the first crack that deviades left away from the main crack and into a stembox small roof to a stance. (5.11+)
- P3:Climb the obvious flaring crack system with a short boulder problem between vertical cracks to the right to stay on the main crack stystem. When the flaring crack peters out and becomes very hard, traverse left onto the face by finessing your way on tiny edges and knobs to reach another crack system (about 4 meters left). follow it until you can traverse right onto a big comfy ledge to bellay (5.12-)
- P4: Climb the clean dihedral to another belay ledge. (5.9)
- P5: Climb up and right on broken terrain between the main wall and a mini towery flake. go around it and become invisible to your bellayer. Follow black lichen cracks and flakes until you are close to the summit. (5.10)
- P6: Climb loose blocks to the summit of the tower. (4th class)
For the descent, bring a tag line, some rappels are longer that 35 meters.
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