Type: Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches
FA: Ethan Berman & Uisdean Hawthorn, July 2020
Page Views: 225 total · 10/month
Shared By: Noah Varley on Aug 18, 2022
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route

1 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Pitch breakdowns from: ethanclimbs.com/furry-frien…

P1 (5.10, 50 m) – Follow the ramp up and through juggy, steep broken cracks and flakes up to a big ledge below a slab trending left.

P2 (5.10, 60 m) – Climb the slab and up through corners and roofs. Trend right toward the base of a golden crack (branching off from the Martino-Wright route, which P1/P2 loosely follow).

P3 (5.11-, 50 m) – Climb the right trending wide crack and make a 5.10 mantle move before trending back left to gain the golden crack splitting the wall above. Balance rope drag against protecting your follower for the slab move. Back clean as necessary. Climb the finger crack through a small roof and follow the perfect thin hands crack until reaching a decent ledge. Eats .75 and 1, and 3 and 4 for the top. Good stoppers for belay.

P4 (5.10, 25 m) – Take the crack up and left into the left facing corner until the first good ledge.

P5 (5.11-, 40 m) – Step up and left from the belay, and find a splitter crack trending up and right. Avoid the choss flakes out left. Follow the crack through an overlap and continue up the right leaning crack with slabby feet until gaining the large ledge. Sling a big block and don’t drop choss on your partner.

P6 (5.10, 50 m) – Follow the easy ramp up past big blocks and climb through two steep corners, trending right. Gain another big ledge.

P7 (5.10, 50 m) – Climb straight up into the thin techy corner and work your way up blocky terrain, trending left before building a belay below the steep cracks leading to the summit.

P8 (5.10, 30 m) – Traverse right and stem off a detached pillar to gain cracks and wide slot up to the summit.

Rappel the bolted stations on the west face of the spire with two ropes.

Location Suggest change

Lost Feather Pinnacle, South Face. To find the first pitch, scramble up the talus/scree pile and keep traversing right until you see it

Protection Suggest change

Rack: .1 – 4 cams, doubles .3 – 3 (triple .75 and 1 recommended), stoppers