CERJ

Named after Centro Excursionista Rio de Janeiro, CERJ is a Capacete classic that offers varied climbing. It is on the northern face of the wall. There exists some variations to the route as well.

It is graded D3 5º V (A0/VI+) E2 which roughly translates to 5.9 AO (one french free pitch) or 5.10/5.10+ all free.

P1: Start in the hand crack and start traversing right. 5.6/5.7

P2: Keep traversing right until the base of the first chimney. 5.6/5.7

P3: Climb chimney and continue on face 5.8

P4:Continue until base of small "chimney" you can skip this anchor and link with P5. 5.8? 5.8+?

P5: Small chimney to big ledge "Plato do sorvete". 5.8

From P5 anchor there are a few varations. There is a harder looking one with a bolted line going left on the arete. You can continue on the route climbing the layback-y arched crack, or continue with the bolts right of the layback-y dihedral.

P6: Dihedral (pro) or face (bolts). 5.8

P7:Go up towards the right and traverse horizontally left on some delicate feet. 5.9

P8: Climb the small rail with extruding crystals (free crux) into an easier slightly overhanging jug haul. Very different from the rest of the rock. 5.10+ free or an easy french free into the 5.8 jug haul.

P9: Easier slabs.

P10: Rope stretcher with a 60m. 

Easiest rap is through Sergio Jacob around the center of the east face of Capacete. Doubles will bring you to the ground in three raps. A single 60 will get you in maybe 6. 

Hike towards the Vale Dos Deuses Campground passing it. To the left there is a big sign for CERJ. Follow the trail into slabytrail that leads to a bushwacky gulley into a shoulder width chimney to the left (go through it). This leads you to the top of the arete/ridge. The climb starts on a hand sized crack with a single bolt as belay.

Bolted belays. Standard rack.