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The Lamentations of Annie Jones (Annie's Lament)
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 1 from 2
votes
Routes in Barnum Rock
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Ann Bay Lee S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ars Fabrilis S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ars Pontis S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Barnum Rock | 1917 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bearded Lady, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Beatle Bay Lee S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Beavis S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Butthead S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cornholio T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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El Diablo T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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El Horno Del Diablo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Elephant Burial Ground S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Elephant Burial Ground II (Resurrection) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Feed The Sweed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fledgling S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Foul Fowl S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Friendly demeanor S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Know No Fear S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lamentations of Annie Jones (Annie's Lament), The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Le Cirque S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Memorial Daze S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No Farm, No Fowl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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No Hope Without Dope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pizz Whiz T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ranger Danger S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Road Kill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sweet Pea T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Twin Peaks T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 330 ft (100 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 32.40108, -110.69681 |
| FA: | FKA: Jerry Cagle and Steven Sagin June 24, 2022 |
| Page Views: | 383 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Jerry Cagle on Jul 27, 2022 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here.
Details
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Location
The obvious, well-featured, darkly stained, rightward-trending weakness L of "The Bearded Lady."
Protection
Offset microcams (P3 especially), tricams (med to large), offset stoppers, offset HB brass micronuts, 1,2, C4. Only a few placements/pitch, but better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.
DESCRIPTION
Background: Annie Jones was the lady of "Bearded Lady" fame. She lived a short, difficult life. Twice wed, she ultimately became a spokeswoman for her fellow sideshow performers and advocated against the use of the term "freak" (to no avail) to describe them. She died of consumption at the age of 37.
A mountaineering style route. Short sections of moderate difficulty followed by runout but relatively easy ground.
P1: 85' or 160': Follow the fissure, angling rightward to the point at which it intersects with the anchor atop "The Bearded Lady". Gear is decent. You could belay here or continue another 80' or so on easy ground (recommended) to the general area below a wide section of somewhat chossy, lichenous, black (stained) rock. Look for a Lost Arrow. Tie it off. Possible to build a good 3 piece anchor, if you're creative.
P2: 130': (distance from near the base of the black section). Straight up the wide black section favoring the R side. Look for a medium-size Knifeblade at the crux. Back it up. Lichenous. Some questionable rock. Belay at the lovely madrone tree.
P3: 40' (or so): Shift the belay up around and behind the tree. Climb up through the short, blocky (mostly solid) section. Offset micro cams very, very useful. Belay at the summit.
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