Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 329 total · 4/month
Shared By: NickMartel on Oct 9, 2011
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here. Details

Description

First route to the right of where the trail meets the wall. Climbs an open book. Mostly pretty easy climbing but with 2 seperate cruxes one between the 2ed and 3ed bolt and one between the 5th bolt and the chains.

Location

First route right of the trail. Climbs open book. Has funny looking belay anchor bolt hanger at the bottom (other routes have belay anchor bolts but with normal hangers).

Protection

5 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

NickMartel
Tucson, Arizona
  5.7
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
  5.7
The 4th bolt hanger can spin half a rotation, however the nut can't be tightened by hand at all. I will tighten next time I am here but if you are heading up here pplease bring a wrench and tighten it ASAP.

I would rate it 5.7- if that were an option but it's not and this is more like 5.7 than 5.6 but not as sustained as other 5.7's in the area but the single hardest move is as hard as on other routes in the area. Oct 10, 2011
Kristina Bergdahl-Martel
Tucson, AZ
  5.7
Kristina Bergdahl-Martel   Tucson, AZ
  5.7
Route on the 'open book'. Not a sustained 5.7; more like a 5.6+ with hardest move a 5.7. I think the crux of the route is between the 2nd and 3rd bolt (of 5 total). Between the last bolt and chains is a lil' mini crux. Oct 18, 2011
NickMartel
Tucson, Arizona
  5.7
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
  5.7
If you start up the white groove to the left of the 1st bolt and stay to the left of the bolts and avoid using the arete you can make it significantly harder, like 5.9, but forcing yourself to not take the easiest path is a bit contrived, but fun if you already have the rope up and want to get in a lap on what is essentially a different climb without pulling the rope. Nov 5, 2011
Peter Underwood
Tucson
  5.7
Peter Underwood   Tucson
  5.7
3 of the bolt hanger can rotate a bit, didnt have a wrench. They appear quite safe. The right top anchor bolt hanger can also move. Requires some size allen/hex wrench (6mm? 8mm?), again, seems well seated. So quite safe. Dec 22, 2018 · Temporary Report