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Routes in Barnum Rock

Accidental Tourist S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ann Bay Lee S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ars Fabrilis S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beatle Bay Lee S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beavis S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Butthead S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cornholio T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
El Diablo T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elephant Burial Ground S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Feed The Sweed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fledgling S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Foul Fowl S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
GumBold-er V1+ 5
Gumby-B-Bold V1 5
Memorial Daze S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Hope Without Dope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pizz Whiz T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ranger Danger S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Road Kill S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweet Pea T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Twin Peaks T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Anders Z., Dominic W., Chris M, Tony F.,
Page Views: 1,066 total, 24/month
Shared By: Anders Zway on Mar 7, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Closed to climbing, Feb 1 - Aug 31 Details

Description

This route is the next route right of Ann Bay Lee. This is the only sport route that leads all the way to the top of Barnum Rock.

Pitch 1 / 60ft (5.8):
Start off on vertical face climbing which quickly leads to a small roof. Pull the small roof which puts you into the delicate crux section. Continue on easier climbing to anchors on top of pitch 1.

Pitch 1 is fun to do just as a single pitch if you don't wanna do or don't have time to do the whole route. It has mussy anchors to lower off

Pitch 2 / 60 ft (5.6):
The second pitches crux is the first two bolts. Climbing up and right through the crux to then hit easier terrain. Follow the bolts that roll out right and up to the second anchor on a large ledge.

Pitch 3 / 75 ft (5.8):
The last pitch leaves from the large ledge and makes its way through some beautiful rolling slabs. The end of the slabs is guarded by a small slightly overhanging crack that makes the crux of this pitch. Make the exposed crux moves through the crack and pull on to the upper clean slab. Look out left for the final bolts and moves.

Descent: Walk off to the North. Hike down hill along the west side of the wall to get back to the main wall area.

Note: There's a rap anchor with steel biners on it on the back side below the block atop the last pitch. You can use this for an anchor (instead of the single bolt) and then rappel to the saddle off the back where the walk down starts.

Location

This route is the next route right of Ann Bay Lee.

Protection

Bolts, anchors

Photos

Jane  
We climbed on Feb. 4, 2017. P1 is about 5.7, P2 feels like 5.6 for only the first ten feet, the rest is about 5.1, P3 is about 5.7. Bring long slings for P3 as you may experience rope drag. Walk off is easier than rappel, as I have done both. If you use two 70 meter ropes, you can skip the P2 anchor and rappel from top all the way to THE tree with rappel anchor.

The view is fantastic. The route is south facing. Even there was a foot of snow on the ground, the climbing is warm and pleasant. Feb 4, 2017
Vyache G
  5.8
Vyache G  
  5.8
The first pitch is great and lots of fun. The second and third pitches are worth doing for the view from the top as you can see all of Tucson as well as the beautiful San Pedro river valley, but there is hardly any actual climbing. Pitch 2 is more like a hike than a 5.6, and besides the one 5.8 move on pitch 3, the rest is ~5.5.

20 ft below the 2nd belay ledge is another very large ledge where you can see and easily communicate with your belayer at the top of pitch 1. One option to get around the difficult communication problem at the 2nd belay ledge is to clove into your anchor leaving yourself ~20 ft of slack between your harness and your clove, and then lowering yourself down the slack using a grigri until you reach the ledge where you can communicate with your belayer. The terrain here is very very easy and can be traversed without the grigri if you don't have one with you. Nov 12, 2016
wwm
 
wwm  
 
You can rap off using a single 80m rope if you rap each pitch, which we did b/c I forgot to actually read the description before we climbed it. We left biners up there for this purpose.

Also, I think maybe its a good bit longer than in the description...we were almost at the ends of the rope (80m) on the rappel from the anchors to the 2nd belay station, and that's while rappelling straight down. From the 2nd belay station to the 1st, there was a little more rope left, but still I think the pitch is much longer than 60 feet. Fun easy multi pitch for my first 3 pitch lead!! Sep 18, 2016
mitchl  
- Spacious belay ledges for pitches 1 and 2
- Pitch 2 bolt path goes off to the right at about a 45 degree angle
- Hard to communicate from the pitch 2 belay ledge- just assume you won't be able to hear each other; and you cannot see the climbers below (nor can they see their belayer)
- Don't count on throwing the rope down to the climbers from the pitch 2 belay ledge: have everyone trail a rope up that is attached to the climber below on the pitch 1 belay ledge
- The pitch 3 crux (the crack) is where you will get rope drag if you don't use a long runner- but this is where you want it snug if you don't know the good holds are up on the left. If you want extra piece of mind, then you can reach up as high as you can in the crack and put a cam in- but with a long runner.
- There's still a little bit of unprotected climbing after pitch 3 (about 8 feet), then when you reach the top, slide down the slope carefully and walk off the left side (your back is to the Feed the Sweed route you just climbed up).
- This is a very nice multi-pitch climb: terrific views, muzzy anchors to make your belay anchor set-up simple, fairly easy 5.8 climbing (pitch 1 requires the most effort). Nov 21, 2014
Justin Headley   Tucson
Fun route. My partner and I found communication from the top to bottom of pitch 2 to be impossible. And pitch 3 has horrendous rope drag if you use standard quickdraws. Bring some extensions. Sep 14, 2014
1Eric Rhicard
  5.8
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.8
First pitch is really good and the last two are worth doing as it reminded me of Sheepshead. Good for the moderate team. If you know how to jam the finish is not the crux. Mar 24, 2014