Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: Vincent Greene, Ben Burnham
Page Views: 1,366 total · 8/month
Shared By: Vincent Greene on Sep 17, 2005
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


16 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here. Details

Description

Directly left of Foul Fowl you will find a bolted route that leads to a set of chains located right below a pair of small "peaks". The first bolt is quite a ways up, but the climbing to reach it is barely 5th class. After that follow the bolts until you reach a big groove below the last bolt. That groove will take a bomber large nut (#8 DMM Wallnut). The crux is on the headwall below the chains, protected by the last bolt.

Protection

Bolts, #8 Wallnut, chain anchors clearly visible from ground.

Photos

NickMartel
Tucson, Arizona
  5.7+
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
  5.7+
FUN ROUTE! If you go over the bulge to the left of the 1st bolt you can add a lower crux, or you can go to the right of the 1st bolt which is much easier. The upper crux is between the last bolt and the chains. There is no place for/need for the "large nut" but that section is no more runout than between the other bolts.

The descriptions here on MP show this as being the left-most route, however, there is a mystery 2 bolts + chains mixed route 10-15 feet left of "Twin Peaks". Dont let the mystery route confuse you. Oct 10, 2011
Kristina Bergdahl-Martel
Tucson, AZ
  5.7
Kristina Bergdahl-Martel   Tucson, AZ
  5.7
Started out to the left - this creates the first crux. I went to the right after leading on TR and tried climbing up the right side and this method does away with the crux. Anyhow, there is a nice, big ledge before the top half continues in a V-shape. I did not locate a good place to put gear as stated in "Squeezing the Lemmon" and the bolts were not any more run-out than the others - five bolts total. The second crux is towards the top as there are few holds and very small holds. Super fun route - not to be confused with the mystery route to the left. Make sure to look above the chains for route potential to the summit!! Oct 18, 2011
NickMartel
Tucson, Arizona
  5.7+
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
  5.7+
Emailed the FA's and they added a bolt to replace the nut placement. This is now a 100% SPORT route. Oct 20, 2011