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Routes in Barnum Rock

Accidental Tourist S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ann Bay Lee S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ars Fabrilis S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beatle Bay Lee S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beavis S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Butthead S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cornholio T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
El Diablo T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elephant Burial Ground S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Feed The Sweed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fledgling S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Foul Fowl S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Memorial Daze S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midgets In The Trunk S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Hope Without Dope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pizz Whiz T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ranger Danger S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Road Kill S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweet Pea T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Twin Peaks T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 210 ft, 3 pitches
FA: ???
Page Views: 1,451 total · 18/month
Shared By: NickMartel on Oct 24, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here. Details

Description [Suggest Change]

3 (or 2) Pitch route. Wear Helmets!

Pitch 1: 90', takes either "Bevis" or "Butthead" to the chains, B/C.

Pitch 2: 30-35', heads left along the belay ledge then up and right via a low angle ramp. Once 7-10' above the belay step right around the bulge (exposed but easy)to a small dihedral and climb face just right of crack/small right facing dihedral to belay ledge with 7-8" diameter tree for an anchor, Trad. When stepping onto the 2ed belay ledge be very careful not to pull on the completely disconnected death flake (we would trundle but it would have hit our stuff/belay ledge/ hangers on P1/ and might not have stopped before the road. There is a good bit of smaller loose rocks on the ledge too not much in the area where you sit/stand but a couple feet to the left. You can link this to pitch 1 but you CAN NOT rap to the ground from the tree with a 60m rope.

Pitch 3: 95', heads to the summit via easy climbing (4th class-5.5). You can make it harder if you want through your route selection. Sling a boulder or horn to rap back down to tree or walk/scramble (and maybe short raps) to the north/west. We rapped the route. If you really wanted to you could also link pitches 2 and 3 but splitting them up makes communicating and rope drag much better as from the chains at the top of pitch 1 you can't see the tree at the top of pitch 2 or the lower half of pitch 3. So if you want to link pitches link pitch 1 and 2.

Location [Suggest Change]

Starts on "Bevis" or "Butthead", which are the 2ed and 3ed bolted routes from the right.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Pitch 1 ("Bevis" or "Butthead") 6 bolts and chain anchors and an extra pair of cold shuts. Pitch 2- nuts/cams/hexes/sling for tree. Pitch 3 nuts/cams/hexes/sling for boulder/big flake/horn.



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