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Routes in Barnum Rock

Accidental Tourist S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ann Bay Lee S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ars Fabrilis S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beatle Bay Lee S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beavis S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Butthead S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cornholio T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
El Diablo T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elephant Burial Ground S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Feed The Sweed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fledgling S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Foul Fowl S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
GumBold-er V1+ 5
Gumby-B-Bold V1 5
Memorial Daze S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midgets In The Trunk S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Hope Without Dope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pizz Whiz T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ranger Danger S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Road Kill S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweet Pea T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Twin Peaks T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Access Issue: Closed to climbing, Feb 1 - Aug 31 Details

Description

Barnum is a nice rock high on the mountain with a reasonably short approach and a number of easy but fun routes. Most of the routes are bolted with chain anchors. The 7500' altitude and trees for shade make this a comfortable area to climb when the temps are rising in the valley.

Getting There

Park in the turnout on the left side of the road about 1/10th a mile before the 18 mile marker. Cross the road and head up the drainage for the obvious cliff. The trail is now pretty obvious and well-marked with cairns.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Barnum Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Elephant Burial Ground
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Cornholio
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 14
Feed The Sweed
Sport 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Elephant Burial Ground
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Cornholio
 3
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Feed The Sweed
 14
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Barnum Rock »

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Photos

Barnum rock is mentioned in the Steiger guide and Squeezing the Lemmon II without any detail. This is in the same area as Gumby wall, but is accessed from the west side. We are calling the west and south face the Bay Lee wall in the route descriptions. GPS coordinates are: N32.40089 W110.69644 Jun 2, 2004
Bob
Bob  
In 2008, this area is closed between February 1 and August 31 - for nesting peregrine falcons and Mexican Spotted Owls. Jun 11, 2004
Some fun climbs in here, especially the 5.9..

Suitable for beginning leaders if they have a good lead head, there are some should-not-fall situations, runouts on easy slabs and ledges.. Oct 4, 2005
The parking pull out is just before mile marker 18 not after it.When driving up the mountain. I have added a picture of Barnum Rock you can see from the parking area. I hope this helps you find it. Sep 9, 2008
There is another sport route that doesn't seem to be listed yet in the Mountain Project beta to the right of Ranger Danger that feels in the 5.7 range, though perhaps a bit more vertical than many of the 5.7s here. There are chains at the top. Oct 2, 2008
Great area for moderate sport routes. Barnum is great because the approach is short, <5 mins, and hardly has a climbing party there, even when open for climbing. (Of course, see falcon closures.) I suggest climbing here in the morning, as the sun can be very hot. Or even in later fall/winter. Would be nice for a topo/overhead of the area. Sep 6, 2010
Gerry Cook
Tucson, Arizona
Gerry Cook   Tucson, Arizona
Found a gold Black Diamond belay device here on 9/5/10. Is it yours? Sep 6, 2010
k-leigh  
I was with a climbing party on 9/4/10, and two different pieces of gear fell from pretty far up on two separate routes. I believe one was an ATC type device, the other was a biner. It's advisable to not use these if found. Sep 13, 2010
NickMartel
Tucson, Arizona
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
From what I can tell from reading all the route discriptions the routes from left to right are:
Sweet Pea
El Diablo
Twin Peaks
Foul Fowl
Beatle Bay Lee
Trail Meets Cliff*
Memorial Daze
Ranger Danger
Ann Bay Lee
Bevis
Butthead
No Hope W/O Dope(alternate PW start)
Pizz Whiz

Is this correct? If not please correct. Are there any more routes that are not listed here? Aug 30, 2011
NickMartel
Tucson, Arizona
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
Awesome climbing here for the 5.7 leader. We did some trail work and built some more cairns this weekend. Oct 10, 2011
aequis
Vail, AZ
aequis   Vail, AZ
Wondering who is working routes far left and uphill from main wall. Went today and awkwardly linked two bolts on downhill (right, facing wall) to belay ledge w/skinny tree, then moved btw tower and main wall to vertical climbing ending w/chains. Did not notice the nearly fully bolted route uphill from our start, left side of tower, until rapping down. Whoever this was/is, good job and thanks, noticed lines for a few more possibles here as well. Sep 24, 2012
Mike Kane
Tucson, AZ
Mike Kane   Tucson, AZ
I'm going to go against the grain and say this isn't the best area for the beginning leader. A lot of no-fall situations and many of the bolts are of a variety that climbing magazine says not to trust (want to say 5/16'' hex heads.) Oct 17, 2016
Pretty sure Ben Burnham put in most of these bolts or was involved so I doubt they are 5/16ths and since I have done them all I would have noticed if they were. I have replaced dozens of older bolts on this mountain and have yet to replace any of the modern bolts I wouldn't have and sometimes did fall on prior to replacing them. 1/4 inch button heads are bad 3/8ths split shanks are bad as are 5/16ths but rarely. Go Climb have fun don't worry. CASA is working on replacing all of the oldest and mixed metal bolts. Oct 17, 2016

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